ELITE22TDR™ - TAKEDOWN PICATINNY RAIL
BILLET CNC MACHINED 10/22® COMPATIBLE RECEIVER
The ELITE22TDR™ is a billet machined receiver with an extendedpicatinny rail in a TAKEDOWN compatible configuration that ships with all takedown receiver hardware (for barrel attachment) installed and ready for final assembly. The assembly includes:
1. Elite22TDR™ Takedown Picatinny Rail Receiver
2. Receiver Barrel Attaching Hardware
Frequently Asked Questions For
TAKEDOWN PICATINNY RAIL
CERAKOTE® SILVER FINISH
100% MACHINED - READY FOR ASSEMBLY
- RUGER®10/22® COMPATIBLE
- BILLET CNC PRECISION MACHINED
- EXTENDED PICATINNY RAIL
- RECEIVER BARREL ATTACHMENT HARDWARE INSTALLED
You can easily complete a rifle or pistol 10/22 style compatible
receiver that can then be assembled with Ruger factory 10/22 parts or
with our billet machined parts for a high quality custom firearm. In order to assemble a complete custom rifle, you will need the following additional parts:
1. Bolt Assembly (Includes Bolt, Sharp Claw Extractor, Stainless Steel Firing Pin)
2. Charging Handle Assembly (Charging Handle, Rod, Spring)
3. Bolt Buffer
4. V-Block & V-Block Cap Screws (you will need one V-Block and two cap screws)
6. Trigger Assembly (complete)
7. Receiver Cross Pins
9. Receiver / Stock Takedown Screw
Assembly is as easy as re-assembling a rifle that has been stripped to its major assemblies for cleaning since the more difficult parts are already put together for you (such as the trigger assembly and the bolt). You will have to fit the barrel shank to the receiver per the instructions on each barrel page. For tools, you will need a pack of allen wrenches and in less than an hour, and you can easily assemble your own custom rifle.
1. STOCK - You can use a rifle or pistol stock. We have a variety of both available including HOGUE, CHRISTIE, and BUTLER CREEK rifle stocks as well as COHORT and ELITE22 pistol stocks.
2. BARREL - The barrel you select will have to match the stock you select. If you pick a rifle stock, you will need a rifle barrel. If you pick a pistol stock, you will need a pistol barrel. We stock a variety of both BLUE BARRELS and STAINLESS BARRELS in both 1:16 as well as 1:9 twists. We also stock PISTOL BARRELS in varying lengths.
3. TRIGGER ASSEMBLY - You can use a Ruger factory trigger pack or you can upgrade to our billet machined ALUMINUM TRIGGER ASSEMBLY in your choice of colors. Our MACHINED ALUMINUM TRIGGER ASSEMBLY will include our MACHINED ALUMINUM PADDLE MAG RELEASE and MACHINED ALUMINUM TRIGGER as standard with the TRIGGER ASSEMBLY. This upgrade is highly recommended.
4. BOLT ASSEMBLY - You can use a Ruger factory bolt assembly or you can upgrade to our CNC machined PRECISION BOLT ASSEMBLY. Either one will be a drop-in assembly.
5. CHARGING HANDLE ASSEMBLY - We offer colors, oversize, steel, aluminum etc. All are available with the recoil rod and spring as an assembly.
6. HARDWARE - You will need some miscellaneous hardware to put everything together, such as:
LEFT CHARGING TAKEDOWN
Thank you for your purchase of a Tactical Innovations’ ELITE22TDR™ receiver. The receiver is precision CNC machined from aircraft 6061 grade aluminum to provide years of reliability and pleasure. Please review these assembly instructions and tips before attempting to assemble your receiver.
The receiver can be assembled with Ruger® factory parts or a custom rifle can be assembled using our billet machined replacement parts. Parts manufactured by third party companies may also work but the use of parts from multiple different manufactures can often be problematic and require additional fitting and troubleshooting as a result of the tolerances for each part from each manufacturer.
The width of the bolt is critical for safe and reliable operation. Ruger® factory bolts that have been “polished” will often then be too thin from the polishing process removing metal and a slam fire condition is possible. Do not use a Ruger® factory bolt that has been “polished” or otherwise modified in any way. When assembling your rifle, ensure that the bolt that you use is wide enough to not allow the bolt to hit the rim and fire the round if the bolt is pushed all the way to either side of the receiver. The entire rim of the round should always be in the corresponding pocket of the bolt regardless of the left or right position of the bolt in the receiver.
Chambering: In order for the rifle to successfully chamber the new round each time, the bolt face has to be smooth and have the correct geometry. Generally, a machined bolt will have a more uniform finish and geometry than a Ruger® factory cast bolt although cast bolts will work most of the time. The recoil spring has to have sufficient force to be able to drive the weight of the bolt forward and strip a round from the magazine. The magazine feedlips have to be designed to ensure that the feed angle will correctly present the round to the chamber. Plastic magazines often will wear out and the feed angle will change. Similarly, different brands of high capacity magazines will have different feed angle geometry resulting in one brand working well and another not working at all. In addition, the actual bullet shape of different brands of ammunition in high capacity magazines will change the feed angle relative to other brands of ammunition that have a different bullet profile. For testing, always use a Ruger® 10 round rotary magazine since the rounds are individually nested and are not stacked on top of each other.
The 10/22® rifle operates based on the blowback of the bolt by the brass when fired. In order for the rifle to function correctly, the recoil of the fired brass has to be greater than the combined resistance of (1) the weight of the bolt, (2) the force of the recoil spring (3) cocking the hammer and (4) the drag of the bolt on the receiver especially whennew, dirty or not oiled. Different brands of ammunition, especially bulk ammunition, will have lighter recoil than ammunition such as CCI® MiniMags®. Similarly, ammunition can have different blowback force from one round to the next due to powder variations in the ammunition. As a result, if the fired round does not blow the bolt all the way rearward each time, you will experience failures to feed as well as failures to eject.
Failure to Feed: When the bolt does not blow back far enough, it will not get behind the next round in the mag in order to strip and push it into the barrel. When this occurs, you will see the bolt stopped and usually dug into the lead bullet of the next round in the magazine. A similar condition, although more difficult to diagnose, occurs when the bolt does not blow back far enough each time and just barely blows back to minimally get behind the next round in the magazine, at which point you will not have the full travel and force of the bolt coming forward to strip the round out of the mag and run it into the chamber. To remedy this issue, you will have to shoot hotter ammo or reduce the countering recoil force as noted above by modifying the recoil spring.
Many third party barrel manufacturers will often use tighter chambers in an effort to increase accuracy. However, the tighter chamber (and often with no feedramp) combined with sharper edges on the chamber face, will make successfully feeding ammo from the magazine to the chamber much more difficult. To successfully feed ammunition into a tighter chamber with no feedramp and sharper edges, you may have to lightly polish the chamber end of the barrel and create a more accessible chamber for the round to be able to feed.
Stovepipe Failure: A stovepipe failure or similar with fired brass ending up jammed in the receiver is usually a function of the extractor on the bolt not pulling the fired brass out of the chamber as the bolt is recoiling to the rear of the receiver. Ideally, the brass would exit the barrel and stay on the face of the bolt without an extractor but the extractor makes sure that the brass leaves the barrel and stays on the bolt while the bolt recoils until the brass hits the ejector with enough force to be thrown out of the gun. If the extractor does not grab the brass out of the chamber or does not hold the brass on the face of the bolt, you should replace the extractor. We offer a Sharp Claw Extractor (Part # 00422 that is EDM cut and not stamped) that will cut into the brass to pull it from the receiver. Most extraction issues are due to the failure of the extractor, which is an easy and inexpensive part to replace.
A stovepipe stoppage can also occur when the bolt does not blow back far enough / hard enough for the brass to strike the ejector with enough force to kick it out of the receiver, and instead it simply falls off the bolt into the receiver. To remedy this issue, you will have to either shoot hotter ammunition or reduce the recoil resistance as noted above, with the easiest option being to clip one or two coils off the recoil spring while continuing to test after clipping each coil.
Reliable function and operation requires that all parts successfully work together as intended. Many issues can be determined and resolved by substituting known non-issue Ruger® factory parts out of the assembly one at a time until the problematic part(s) are identified. Although the majority of rifle assemblies can be completed without any issues (especially when using either all Ruger® parts or all Tactical Innovations’ parts), you should seek competent professional gunsmithing assistance should you encounter a situation that exceeds your comfort or experience level. We are happy to perform a comprehensive measurement and quality check on any of our receivers but do not offer assembly or trouble shooting gunsmithing services.