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  • A suppressor MUST ship to a Class 3 dealer in your state. The federal $200 transfer tax (from your dealer to you), sales tax (if applicable) and your dealer's transfer fee are NOT included in the sale price and are the buyer's responsibility.

Excellent Suppression, Easy To Clean

The TAC65 .22LR suppressor continues to set the standard for outstanding performance, light weight and an incredibly low price. As suppressor purchasers become more educated and understand the mechanics and construction of suppressors, the high performance features of the TAC65 at such an affordable price continues to make it one of the suppressor market's more popular choices. Compare the TAC65 to any other .22LR suppressor and we're sure that you'll agree that a TAC65 delivers the perfect combination of performance and price.


The reality of current suppressor designs and manufacture is that most current production suppressors use proven 2 stage K baffles, as does the TAC65.  Although our meters can quantify db differences between suppressors, db measurements will vary between days, guns, ammunition etc. As a result, we build our suppressor baffle stack first based on our meter and then modify it based on human perception feedback. For instance, a slightly higher db at a different frequency might appear quieter based on the shooter's ability to hear it. Similarly, duration of peak db will have a different impression on your ear. For instance, a micro second at one db level will set a peak level on our meter (regardless of its duration), but it still sounds more quiet than 2 or 3 times the peak length of time at a slightly lower db level. Based on the wide range of differences in db data collection, data integrity and data interpretation, we do not publish meter generated db reductions (which have become somewhat of a joke in the suppressor industry). We are confident that when you shoot a TAC65 suppressor, you'll agree that its performance delivers.

Anyone that's shot .22 rimfire ammo knows how dirty it is. In additon to the dirt, with a suppressor, every shot sends a mist of molten lead out the barrel with the bullet. When the molten lead hits the suppressor, it hardens. An ultrasonic cleaner or home brew solvent will get the carbon out of the suppressor but it will not remove the lead. The ONLY way to remove lead is to disassemble the suppressor and either wire brush or bead blast it off the baffles.  Our TAC65 suppressor, like all of our .22 LR suppressors, can be completely disassembled by the user to include the removal of both endcaps and all the internal baffles, and then cleaned and reassembled. If you don't believe that .22LR ANYTHING can be "sealed and self cleaning", then the ability to disassemble and clean your suppressor is a feature that will keep your suppressor operating at peak performance for many years to come without costly returns to the manufacturer for service.

Our TAC65 suppressor is as durable as it is beautiful. The suppressor tube and both endcaps are matte black Type 3 hard anodized. Anodizing is not a paint or a spray on finish, its a molecular change in the material that forms crystals (like diamonds) on the outside of the material. Its the same finish that space and defense contractors and the military require on their parts. The 1/2 x 28 threads that mount the suppressor are also hard anodized.

We are frequently asked about steel or titanium inserts for suppressor mounting and don't think it is necessary or useful. In the event the suppressor is not unscrewed from the host firearm for a long time after a lot of shooting, the suppressor can be difficult to unscrew from the firearm. If you have a steel barrel and either steel or titanium for the suppressor mounting and either the barrel or the suppressor thread is going to be damaged to get the suppressor off, we would prefer to see the suppressor cap stripped rather than the threads on the firearm. Its much easier, and less expensive, to unscrew and replace the endcap than to have to get the barrel threaded again. Its been our practical experience that hard anodized endcaps are far more durable than needed thus making steel inserts costly and unnecessary. However, if you want or need a steel insert, don't settle just for an insert, our QUEST SUPPRESSOR is completley manufactured out of stainless steel at a price that most other manufacturer's charge for their aluminum suppressor.


To compliment the matte black Type 3 hard black anodized finish, each suppressor is professionally laser engraved in compliance with BATFE marking requirements, indicating its serial number, model, manufacturer and caliber. Sure laser engraving costs a few dollars more than traditional rotary engraving, but anything less looks like it costs a lot less. The TAC65 suppressor delivers performance and appearance at a cost that continues to amaze buyers.

Every piece of a TAC65 suppressor is CAD designed and CNC manufactured in our modern CNC machine shop out of American certified T6 aircraft crade aluminum. The backbone of any suppressor is the baffle stack and each baffle is individually lathe machined. There are no stamped parts, hardware store washers, screens, wipes, grease or any other parts that will wear out or have to be repetitively replaced. Our commitment to manufacturing excellence assures you consistent parts interchangeability and the finest workmanship available.

One of the major advantages of a screw on "muzzle can" suppressor compared to an integrally suppressed firearm is that it can be used on multiple firearms to best suit the requirement. The Banshee suppressor is designed for either handgun or rifle use and works well on traditional mounting platforms. 

One other advantage of a screw on suppressor is that it can be disassembled from either end by removing BOTH endcaps to drive the baffles out either end. By comparison, the suppressor on an integrally suppressed firearm (assuming the manufacturer even designed it with the capability of removing the front endcap) quickly becomes soldered together with lead from firing making it difficult, and often impossible to pull the baffles out the front of the assembly.


Many other "manufacturers" put their name on a product that they don't build. EVERY TAC65 suppressor that we sell, we make every piece of it and are intimately familiar with its function, assembly and operation. We operate a fulltime firearm CNC manufacturing machine shop with live customer service, not answering machines. We have the parts, the staff and the experience in-house to service and troubleshoot our products, resulting in fast turnarounds and hassle free service for you, our valued customer. You should expect nothing less from any other suppressor manufacturer.

The truth is that suppressors don't have all that much material in them and volume production with our modern CNC lathes make manufacturing costs per unit very reasonable. We base our profit margins on volume, which means we can sell our suppressors at prices that are considerably lower than many other manufacturers' prices that produce small quantity runs or even individual "handmade pieces". Our modern CNC machines ensure the highest workmanship and consistent quality part after part.
    Excellent Suppression, Easy To Clean
  • MANUFACTURER Tactical Innovations Inc.
  • APPLICATION .22LR Rifles or Pistols
  • MOUNTING THREAD 1/2 x 28 TPI - .400 Length
  • MATERIAL T6 Aircraft Grade Aluminum - Tube, Endcaps & Internals
  • FINISH Matte Black Type 3 Hard Anodized
  • WEIGHT 4.1 Ounces
  • LENGTH 5.90"
  • DIAMETER - OD 1.085"
  • BAFFLE DESIGN Ported Two Stage "K" Baffles
  • ACCESSORIES 6 Point Disassembly Tools Optional, Available Separately
  • NOTES: Suppressor can be completely disassembled by the user for cleaning (recommended).


  • TAC65

  • Tactical Innovations offers multiple .22LR suppressors in different construction materials, sizes and prices to suit virtually any use, requirement, budget or personal perference. In addition, all of our .22LR suppressors can be disassembled for cleaning and service by the user and are supported by our commitment to customer service.

    TAC65 - "The Work horse"

    The TAC65 is our most popular suppressor. It has often been described as the perfect intersection between performance, cost, and size. Its a "workhorse" that continues to deliver year after year for a price that can't be beat. For most shooters that want a solid can at a price that won't break the bank, the TAC65 is the perfect companion for your rifle or pistol every time you go camping, hiking, hunting, plinking or fishing.

    STRATUS - Minimum Size & Weight

    The .22LR STRATUS suppressor, as its name describes, at 2.4 ounces is so light that many customers have to look inside it to make sure it's not an empty tube! Every possible machine work element and performance feature is included in the STRATUS suppressor, to include lightening where ever possible, vortex exit cap, constant pressure two stage "K" baffle system, and minimum size and length, all in a package that is approximately 3/4" shorter and almost 1/10 of an inch smaller in diameter than our TAC65. For customers that want the smallest, lightest, quietest possible suppressor, the STRATUS is it. We've had customers ask what we would build for a lightweight .22LR suppressor if price was no option... even at multiple times the price, and there are no additonal features that we'd be able to add or incorporate regardless of the price. Given its premium features, performance, size and weight, and all at a production price, our STRATUS suppressor is an easy choice!

    QUEST - Compact Stainless for Semi or Full Auto

    The only way to improve on the STRATUS suppressor was to make it out of stainless steel. The QUEST suppressor is the same geometry, size, premium features and performance as the Stratus, but instead of an ultra lightweight aluminum package, the QUEST's stainless steel construction makes it robust enough for responsible full auto fire, while still being light enough for traditional handgun and rifle use. For customers that want a multipurpose can, or that shoot A LOT and want a suppressor that can handle years of shooting and cleaning, the QUEST is the suppresor you'll want.

    DIAMOND - Hard Full Auto Fire

    Very few customers will need our DIAMOND suppressor, but for those that do, there is NOTHING else like it! Too many customers were using our TAC16 .223 suppressor for hard full auto .22LR fire, and although it works, it's too big and heavy for a .22LR application. The DIAMOND suppressor is made for HARD .22LR FULL AUTO FIRE, such as from our AM15 or an AM180. Multiple 275 round drums back to back is what the DIAMOND is made for. Its stainless steel construction, incorporating both blast baffles and "K" baffles, along with its custom radially finned exterior, makes it a premium suppressor that delivers drum after drum. Although its weight makes it marginally uncomfortable for traditional .22LR handguns and rifles, for rimfire full auto blasting, the DIAMOND suppressor has no equal for strength, performance and size.  

    Overall Rating: 4.94 out of 5 18 reviews

    Review This Product

    By Marty Of
    I met Craig at the 2005 SHOT show in Vegas. Placed an order for the Suppressor deal (TAC-16, TAC-52, TAC-65, P-22 adaptor and take down tools) Love them all! I have shot the snot out each one of these! Nothing but Full auto out of the 16 and close to 4000 rounds out of the .22 cans. Got concerned that I need to clean the cans and e-mailed Craig to see what I needed to do. I didn’t get a “Canned letter” (no pun intended) on “Check our FAQs. (Which I didn’t look at till after I sent off e-mail), but, I get a personal E-mail from Craig himself with tips and trick to keep them running. To Craig and his staff; a few full auto mag dumps thru the TAC-16 in your honor!
    By Chris Of
    My Tac-65 was my first suppressor purchase, and I had an idea about what it was going to be like when I used it. Until I first shot it, that is! Very nice on the end of my Walther P-22. Very nice on the end of my AR-15 (with a subcal .22lr conv); all you hear is the bolt clicking back and forth. An added benefit to my supressor was when I let my wife shoot it. It seems that she loves it more than me. I would suggest the Walther P-22 and Tac-65 combo to anyone who likes to shoot, and especially to thise who want to get their spouces actively involved in the sport with them.
    By james Of
    I've had a TAC65 for a couple years and have at least over 10k rounds through it. The reason I bought it was because I could take it apart to clean it and based on the lead and crap that I've scraped out of it, I'd never buy a sealed up one. you won't beat the price and Craig is great to deal with. I wish I'd have gotten it years ago.
    By husbandofaromanian Of
    I purchased a Tac-65 in 2006. I put it on a T/C Contender because Contender is a single shot design (no gas leaks). It is amazingly quiet. Target shooting without hearing protection is a LOT OF FUN. Hearing the bullet hit the target is a LOT OF FUN. If it wasn't for the economy of this suppressor I probably wouldn't have bought one and I would have missed out on something truly pleasurable and a fantastic conversation topic.
    By Jim Of
    Three words.... TOO MUCH FUN!
    By Dan Of
    I purchased a TAC-65 and the Walther P-22 together. A friend of mine purchased the P-22 and a GemTech. He was upset when he found that I spent hundreds less and got the same results he does out of his. Also I can clean mine own and he has to send his back to the factory at a substantial cost. Almost the price of a new TAC-65.
    By chris Of
    The tac 65 was my first suppressor and I LOVE IT!!! I use it on my p22 as well as my ruger mk 2 and my cz rifle. Nothing better than dusting off a few sub sonic rounds with only a whisper. Very versatile as well as light. Now when are these guys going to make a 308? Drool!!! great product guys. CS
    By Mike Of Oregon
    I got the last "Flamed" TAC 65 in house and I am a great fan. The unit is easy to clean, inside & out, and though there has been about 4000 rounds fired through it, you wouldn't be able to tell. The unit is very quiet on the Walther, Ruger or the Mossberg Mod. 802. The TAC 65 gives way more value than the others, so select the right one the first time. Thanks T.I. Inc!!!
    By Robb Of
    I recently purchased a TAC65 after being advised by someone who owned another brand that I shouldn't buy it, and all I can say is that I'm glad I did my homework and didn't listen to him! This is by far the best suppressor you can buy for the money (He paid $400 for his brand X and the TAC65 is just as quite). The fact that you can clean it yourself is a huge benefit, in fact I would never consider purchasing a .22 suppressor that could not be user cleaned. It works flawlessly on my 10/22, Mark II, and P22. An excellent product!
    By Rich Of
    Yep, like everyone else has said, great product for the money.
    By Machinegun Of
    I absolutely love my TAC65. I bought it about 2 1/2 years ago and have run over 16,000 rounds with out a hiccup from the gun or suppressor. Easy to clean in a ultrasonic cleaner. Thanks TI. Machinegun Mike in Indiana
    By Sam\'s Of
    I selling this suppressor for many years and have many satisfy customer, never have one complain. The only thing deduct it off one knot is comunications and shipping, otherwise Caig have an excellent products for the price,
    By Richard Of Pennsylvania
    OK, here is the skinny; This is my first can. Love it. My primary host (a S&W M&P 15/22) had a problem and is now back at S&W for repairs. I have now put over 2500 rounds through this can. Most have been through my Colt AR15 with a SARCK kit. I was hesitant to put the can on this setup because of the 1:7 twist. I did not want a bullet leaving and hitting a baffel or the end cap. Since the S&W is out of the picture for who knows how long, I took that first chance. SHOOTS QUIET with standard velocity ammo. I have used Ely sport, Remington standard velocity and CCI standard velocity. The CCI standard velocity is the CLEANEST and most consistant. Never had a sonic crack with CCI, about 1 in 20 with Remington (when it worked) and none with Ely ( but dirty dirty dirty) I can hear the bullets strike my wood backstop. Too much fun!!
    By Brandon Of Texas
    I have this can on a Walther P22 with attached laser and it is a blast to shoot. I also have a Ruger 10/22 with TacSol SBX barrel that the can fits. It works great on both guns. I have used remington, cci, fiochi and aguila sub sonic ammo without issue. They all function in the guns and very little noise when shooting. Great suppressor for the price. Very easy to take apart and clean.
    By W Of Pennsylvania
    I just shot through this suppressor for the first time this past weekend, and I absolutely love it! I was using it on a Ruger 10/22 with a Tactical Innovations threaded 10/22 16.5 inch 1:9 twist barrel. As a side note, I went with the 1:9 twist instead of the 1:16 twist in case I ever wanted to use 60gr .22 ammo. The ammo used that day was CCI subsonic 40 grain ammo, and it was amazingly quiet through the suppressor (it also functioned flawlessly in my gun). Seriously, the sound of the bullet ripping through the 1/4 inch plywood target at 25 yards was louder than the sound at the shooter. This was my opinion as well as that of the other 10 people who were present at the outdoor shooting range that day (many who had never seen a suppressor other than on TV, and a few who thought I had been shooting am airgun until they came over). The bolt noise was the loudest sound near the shooter (I will replace my steel bolt buffer with a urethane (or whatever) buffer just for the heck of it, but that is just to quiet the action noise of the 10/22... Not a problem on a bolt action but I don't have one with a threaded barrel... yet. A few more things... I was surprised how light the suppressor is, the craftsmanship is TOP QUALITY, and because I read a few reviews on other sites that people had trouble getting theirs apart after a while, I pre-lubed the endcap threads with a silicone spray. After 100 rounds, they could just as easily unscrew off by hand with the endcap tool as they could before I ever fired it. All in all, a GREAT buy. If you are considering buying this suppressor, just stop thinking about it and do it. You will not be disappointed.
    By gary Of Connecticut
    tac65 i love it.Just wondering if anyone has a any sug on cleaning it without taking it apart(other than for lead removal)I had someone say soak it in simple Greene-- any ideas out there? gary
    By Mike Of Maine
    I just got my TAC65 today! I immediately installed it onto my Savage MKII FVSR and it looks great. I shot Remington's Subsonic ammo. It was AWESOME! This is my first suppressor and I am very impressed. It's a great product at such a great price!
    By george Of Connecticut
    tac-65 exc can very quiet.I have a great way to clean it too.Take it app soak it in simple green using a sonic cleaner.Before you put it back together spray all internals with welding anti spatter.You will get no lead build up no carbon deposits that cant be wiped of with a cloth.. ole george

    Frequently Asked Questions For


    1. Can I really order this suppressor on-line and you'll ship it to me?!
    2. Can anyone legally own a suppressor?
    3. Can I shoot my TAC65 suppressor on a fully automatic firearm?
    4. Can I shoot .223 / 5.56mm through my TAC65 suppressor on my AR15?
    5. Can I shoot calibers other than .22LR , such as .22WRM (magnum) and .17 RF through it?
    6. Will the suppressor affect my accuracy?
    7. Can I shoot this suppressor on multiple firearms including rifles and handguns?
    8. What is the TAC65 suppressor db reduction?
    9. How often should a this suppressor be disassembled for cleaning?
    10. A few manufacturers offer stainless threads for attaching the suppressor to the firearm. Is this necessary?
    11. What support can I expect from Tactical Innovations if I have questions or need service?
    12. Can I send Tactical Innovations my gun(s) / barrel(s) to thread?
    13. Can I use a muzzle nut coupling instead of threading my barrels for use with my DIAMOND suppressor?
    14. Can I request a custom serial number?
    15. Can I purchase the suppressor tube only, with no internals with no paperwork?
    16. Can I purchase the internals or endcaps with no paperwork?
    17. Do you recommend any other accessories to go with this suppressor?
    18. How much is shipping on this suppressor?
    19. Will Tactical Innovations rebuild other manufacturers' suppressors that I now own?
    20. Is this price the "dealer" price or "retail" price?
    1. Can I really order this suppressor on-line and you'll ship it to me?!
      Of course not... Suppressors (silencers) are NFA restriced firearms and must transfer in strict compliance with federal, state and local regulations. Refer to PURCHASE STEPS tab for detailed purchasing guidelines.
    2. Can anyone legally own a suppressor?
      Depending on which state you live in, most individuals that can legally own a handgun can legally own an NFA firearm such as a suppressor or machine gun. Refer to PURCHASE STEPS tab for detailed purchasing guidelines.
    3. Can I shoot my TAC65 suppressor on a fully automatic firearm?
      The TAC65 Suppressor is not rated for full auto fire. Full auto fire generates potentially damaging heat much more quickly than semi auto fire does. In order for us to rate it for full auto use, we would have a responsibility to be able to provide purchasers with data for factors such as, but not limited to: the volume of fire using different ammunition, from different barrel length firearms, running at different rates of speed, etc, combinations of which could damage the suppressor and potentially injure the shooter or bystanders. The time required to accurately generate that data is not commensurate with the demand, so we've instead elected to not rate the TAC65 Suppressor as a full auto suppressor. When comparing our TAC65 Suppressor to other manufacturers' suppressors that allow "limited full auto fire", be sure to demand specific damage point data. For fullauto fire, we recommend our DIAMOND all stainless steel .22LR suppressor, which is capable of multiple AM180 drums of sustained fire without any damage. For more moderate full auto shooting, we recommend our QUEST all stainless steel .22LR suppressor, that works well on both handguns and rifles.
    4. Can I shoot .223 / 5.56mm through my TAC65 suppressor on my AR15?
      Many shooters like to use a .22LR conversion kit on their M16/AR15 and the TAC65 is a perfect fit for .22LR firing. However, even though you can have the suppressor on your rifle and could physically shoot a .223 round through it, due to the extremely higher pressures of the .223 / 5.56 ammunition, the TAC65 suppressor could be damaged or destroyed with possible injury to the shooter and / or bystanders. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES SHOOT A .223 / 5.56MM ROUND THROUGH A TAC65 OR ANY OTHER SUPPRESSOR DESIGNED FOR .22LR AMMUNITION.
    5. Can I shoot calibers other than .22LR , such as .22WRM (magnum) and .17 RF through it?
      Although many customers have had good experiences shooting the TAC65 on firearms of calibers other than those that its rated for at their own risk by using common sense and good judgement, the TAC65 is not rated for any calibers other than .22LR. In order for us to rate it for other calibers, we would have a responsibility to be able to provide purchasers with data regarding the safe use of the suppressor using different ammunition, from different barrel length firearms, that could be used without damaging the suppressor or potentially causing injury to the shooter and or bystanders. The time required to accurately generate that data is not commensurate with the demand, so we've instead elected to rate the TAC65 for use ONLY with .22LR ammunition. Other calibers will have varying pressures and could damage the suppressor and / or cause personal injury to the shooter or bystanders, and therefore their use is not recommended and they should not be used. Safe firearm handling and use would preclude the use of any firearm or suppressor with ammunition other than that for which it was designed.
    6. Will the suppressor affect my accuracy?
      The suppressor should have minimal shift change on the impact of the bullet as compared to shooting with no suppressor for general recreational target shooting. The additional weight on the barrel will change how the barrel flexes and vibrates when fired, which will change your point of impact. For general plinking, just shoot it, but before using the suppressor for hunting or other "serious" target shooting, you should re-sight the firearm with the suppressor installed to compensate for any differences.
    7. Can I shoot this suppressor on multiple firearms including rifles and handguns?
      The TAC65 suppressor will work on any .22LR firearm that is correctly threaded 1/2 x 28 tpi. It works equally well for rifle or pistol use.
    8. What is the TAC65 suppressor db reduction?
      We agree with other reputable manufacturers and have stopped publishing db reduction numbers. While we own and use the same meters for R&D and testing that other manufacturers use, we also tune our designs based on perceived "ear" noise, which is often contradictory to what the meter indicates. Sound from the TAC65 with .22LR sub-sonic ammunition will sound like a pellet gun. When using the suppressor on a firearm with a barrel longer than approx 3.5", you will have to shoot subsonic ammunition in order to not have the sonic crack from the bullet accelerating to supersonic speeds. Supersonic rounds will sound like an un-suppressed .22LR due to the sonic crack when the bullet exceeds the speed of sound.
    9. How often should a this suppressor be disassembled for cleaning?
      Each time you shoot any .22LR ammo, a mist of lead leaves the barrel and when it reaches the colder suppressor, it will instantly harden on the suppressor surface and continually build up. Since .22LR ammo is not jacketed (even the gold covered ammo is dipped, not jacketed), you will experience lead buildup in addition to carbon and dirt. Due to the ammunition, suppressors wind up with a lot of that dirt in them. Ultrasonic cleaners will remove the carbon and dirt but WILL NOT remove the lead build up. The ability to disassemble the suppressor for cleaning or service without the need to return the suppressor to the manufacturer to have it cut open as required by other manufacturers, is a significant advantage of the TAC65 suppressor over other manufacturers' offerings. The frequency of cleaning will depend on the ammunition that you shoot, since some are dirtier than others. Generally 2500 to 3500 rounds has been the preferred cleaning frequency that customers have reported.
    10. A few manufacturers offer stainless threads for attaching the suppressor to the firearm. Is this necessary?
      The TAC65 Suppressor has a hard black anodized finish. Anodizing is not a spray or a paint. Its a molecular change that actually brings small crystals to the surface, basically giving it a "diamond" finish on the inside and outside of the tube as well as on the threads. Even after screwing the suppressor on and off 1000s of times, your suppressor threads will not be damaged. In the improbable event the threads ever somehow could get damaged, the disassemble design makes it easy just to replace the rear endcap. The added expense and weight associated with steel threads are not necessary. In addition, some customers have fired many 1000's of rounds without ever removing their suppressor from their rifle, and when they attempt to remove it, the lead and carbon between the threads of the barrel and the suppressor makes it difficult to remove. In the rare event you ever had a similar problem, it would be preferable to damage the threads on the aluminum suppressor endcap rather than the steel threads on the barrel since the end cap is much easier and less expensive to replace.
    11. What support can I expect from Tactical Innovations if I have questions or need service?
      Tactical Innovations is a FULL TIME firearm related manufacturing facility, in business for over 13 years. We have fulltime staff to answer telephone calls during business hours. When you purchase from us or one of our dealers, you have the support of the manufacturer behind each suppressor. If you have a question or problem, you'll deal directly with the source, not a middle man with no manufacturing or product experience. We want your business and will do whatever we can to continue to earn it.
    12. Can I send Tactical Innovations my gun(s) / barrel(s) to thread?
      We currently are not taking in any barrel threading work due to peak manufacturing production demands. Most local gunsmiths as well as machine shops should be able to correctly thread your barrel for a nominal charge. We have a list of barrel threading tips that you can provide to your gunsmith or machine shop to help ensure a perfect job. Refer to the BARREL THREADING tab for detailed purchasing guidelines.
    13. Can I use a muzzle nut coupling instead of threading my barrels for use with my DIAMOND suppressor?
      While the use of a muzzle nut coupling instead of threading multiple barrels appears to be an inexpensive and fast solution to threading each barrel, the use of any muzzle nut coupling would void any factory complimentary repair work because as the bores of a barrel is drilled, the drill "walks" a little over the length from the starting end to the muzzle end. This means that the bore is never EXACTLY in the middle of the barrel, so if you clamp a muzzle coupling on the the barrel, the bore will be off center to the suppressor and there is a high probability that you will shoot your endcap and / or baffles, causing sever damage to the suppressor.
    14. Can I request a custom serial number?
      In order to keep our manufacturing costs as low as possible, custom serial numbers are unfortunately not available.
    15. Can I purchase the suppressor tube only, with no internals with no paperwork?
      Of course not. The tube is a registered NFA firearm and must be transferred identically to a complete suppressor with the accompanying paperwork and tax due per federal law. It is not legal, please do not call to ask us.
    16. Can I purchase the internals or endcaps with no paperwork?
      Absolutely not. Suppressor components, as in each individual internal piece, are restricted and cannot be sold to individuals per federal law. You can not buy one internal baffle or even one endcap. No "kit" is available for suppressors. It is not legal, please do not call to ask us. In the unlikely event your QUEST suppressor should need any service, it must be returned to our facility for service, no exceptions.
    17. Do you recommend any other accessories to go with this suppressor?
      We offer our 6 Point Disassembly Tool to make taking the suppressor apart for cleaning or service a much easier task. Two are recommended so you have one for each end when disassembling the suppressor.
    18. How much is shipping on this suppressor?
      Suppressor shipping costs vary depending on the carrier you prefer and your geographic location. Shipping options are available on our shopping cart as part of the Checkout Process. In order to save time and money, we would encourage you to purchase from a local in-state stocking dealer. In the event no stocking dealer is available, we will ship to any Class 3 dealer that you designate.
    19. Will Tactical Innovations rebuild other manufacturers' suppressors that I now own?
      At present we only service our own suppressors and do not service or rebuild other manufacturers' suppressors. You should contact the manufacturer of your other suppressors for them to service it.
    20. Is this price the "dealer" price or "retail" price?
      Individuals may purchase this suppressor on-line but must work out the transfer arrangements and fees with their local in-state Class 3 dealer. FFL dealers with a current SOT should fax (208-267-1597) or email their dealer paperwork for confidential dealer pricing. Call or email if you have any questions and we'll be glad to help.

    All Tactical Innovations .22LR suppressors have threaded endcaps to allow the user to disassemble them for cleaning and service. Many manufacturers will claim to have "self cleaning" suppressors or that swishing a solvent in the suppressor will sufficiently clean your suppressor. We all know how dirty .22's are, and suppressors wind up with a lot of that dirt in them. Ultrasonic cleaners will remove the carbon and dirt but WILL NOT remove the lead build up.

    There are two different schools of thought on the suppressor cleaning issue. Most users are willing to clean their suppressor as necessary to ensure its long life with no problems while other users never disassemble their unit and attempt to clean it as much as possible by soaking or ultrasonic, without ever disassembling it. If you choose to not disassemble your suppressor, eventually it will get leaded up to the point that it will no longer be functional and disassembly will be difficult to impossible. While it's true that you can get away without cleaning a suppressor for a long time (possibly 10's of 1000's of rounds), eventually the lead will get so thick that the bullet will literally have to squeeze through the now undersize hole in the baffle. If you're the kind of shooter that we are, and you want to shoot your suppressor A LOT, we want you to be as happy with your suppressor years down the road as you are with it when you get it. The ability to disassemble the suppressor for cleaning or service without the need to return the suppressor to the manufacturer to have it cut open as required by other manufacturers, is a significant advantage of the TAC series of suppressors over other manufacturers' offerings.

    Since .22LR ammo is not jacketed (the copper coated washed bullets are not the same as a jacketed bullet), you will experience lead buildup in addition to carbon and dirt. Each time you shoot any .22LR ammo, a mist of lead leaves the barrel and when it reaches the colder suppressor, it will instantly harden on the suppressor surface and continually build up. The frequency of cleaning will depend on the ammunition that you shoot, since some are dirtier than others. We suggest that you clean your suppressor the first time after a couple 100 rounds so you'll understand the process before it gets too hard to take it apart. There is no need to clean it any more often than you have to based on your difficulty to disassemble it. Generally 2500 to 3500 rounds has been the preferred cleaning frequency that customers have reported but many customers wait for 5000+ rounds. More frequent cleaning intervals, such as after each use, are not necessary and serve no benefit to the suppressor.

    Cleaning without disassembly can easily be accomplished with either an ultrasonic cleaner or simply soak it by immersion in a parts washer. DO NOT USE any cleaner that has ammonia in it since it will disolve your suppressor and baffles causing permanent damage. DO NOT use gasoline or kerosene, you stand the risk of exploding the suppressor when you next fire it. Drain it completely, wash it out well with water, shake out any excess water, fire a round or 2 to get the remaining water out and then lightly mist spray with non-flamable oil. You'll be able to remove the dirt and carbon using this method but your will not be able to remove the lead.


      After ensuring that your firearm is not loaded, remove the suppressor from the firearm. You CANNOT take it apart while its still attached to the firearm.
      The can should be soaked prior to disassembly to aid in disassembly. We recommend a gallon of WD40 in a large plastic jar and leave it in to soak overnight. Spraying some oil into the can will be of minimal to no benefit. Soak it. After soaking, remove from the oil, drain, wash the exterior to remove any oil, dry the exterior.
      You will need MINIMALLY one Assembly & Disassembly Tool to unscrew the caps. We recommend two. Put one tool into a vice and lock it in. Stand the suppressor up on the tool. Place the second tool on the top of the suppressor. Use a 1" wrench to turn the top tool while at the same time push the suppressor down on the bottom tool. Loosen whichever cap unscrews first only about 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. Do not completely unscrew the cap. Just loosen it at this point.
      Whichever cap loosened first, align that cap with the driver tool that is locked in the vice. Put the still tight cap up. Align the second driver tool into the still tight top cap. Use either a rubber strap wrench or someone with really strong hands to turn the suppressor tube clockwise while you unscrew the top cap. Completely remove the top cap, then either by hand or with the strap wrench, completely remove the already loosened bottom cap.
      The baffles will be difficult to remove from the tube since the lead has soldered them together and into the tube. You will be able to see the lead build up especially on the first baffle. There will be a ring of lead around each baffle which has to be broken in order to drive the baffles from the tube. Use a 3/4" diameter wooden dowel cut 7 inches long to tap / hammer the baffles out. The easiest and safest way to accomplish this is to have your buddy hold the tube in the air while you use the dowel and a plastic face lead deadblow hammer to tap the baffles out, alternating from one end to the next. Once you get the first one moving, the rest will move as well since the lead ring has been broken.
      Use a soft brush to clean the inside of the tube so that you can slide the baffles back in for reassembly. Do not use any hard brushes that will damage the finish inside of the suppressor tube. Similarly, do not use any solvents or cleaners with ammonia or similar that will disolve aluminim. Scrub the insides of the caps. Do not scrub the threads. After a lot of use, it may become necessary to clean the 1/2x28 thread with a class 2B tap. A tap can be purchased on line from MSCDIRECT. Use caution when chasing the threads with a tap since the tap is capable of incorrectly cutting new threads in the cap. The tap should by used by hand only to clean the existing threads if necessary.
      The baffles will never be shiny aluminum and they don't need to be. The preferred method of cleaning is to abrasive blast each baffle until all of the lead has been removed.  Although it takes a lot of abrasive blasting to damage the baffles, if you were to use high air pressure and very coarse abrasive, and stay in one spot for too long, its possible to damage a baffle.  Use common sense and good judgement and it will be difficult to damage the baffles.

    If you do not have access to an abrasive blast cabinet, you can usually get someone at the local machine shop or car repair to either do them or let you use there cabinet for a very reasonable fee.

    As a last resort, you can try to use a brush to clean the baffles to remove any large deposits, ensuring that the ports and vents are not in any way blocked.  However, it is almost impossible to get the baffles clean with only a brush.

    Also note, that there is NO solvent / cleaner / chemical that will remove the lead and not also damage the aluminum baffles since if it will take the lead off, it will also damage the aluminum baffels.  In addition, the resultant solution is highly toxic and is a hazmat which requires stringent disposal requirements.  Disposal in the drain or on the ground could get  you in big trouble.

              To clean the inside of the tube, Sears sells a small 3 stone brake hone that will easily fit a 1" tube.  When placed on an electric drill, you should lightly oil the inside of the tube and using the brake hone will remove the lead rings in the tube.  As long as you don't over hone the tube, only the lead rings will be removed and the inside of the tube will be nice and smooth and the ID will not change.

      A small amount of "Never Seize" or "No Seize" (which is used on automobile exhaust manifold bolts and is available at any auto parts store) on the endcap OD threads, will facilitate future disassembly. To assemble, screw the rear cap (1/2x28 hole in it) on to the tube first, paying attention to orient the lettering on the tube correctly. Use the driver tool that is still in the vice to hand tighten the rear cap as tightly as you can get it by hand. DO NOT use the strap wrench or any other tools. Insert the baffles from the front of the can with the flat surface first and the cone second (the bullet goes through the flat part of the baffle first), spiraling the baffles every 90 degrees as you put them in. Screw on the front cap and use the same driver in the vice to HAND torque it. You should have tight baffle compression between the caps and there should be between 0.000 and 0.004 gap between the tube and the front cap (about the thickness of a piece of paper). If there is more than that, the baffles are not clean and the dirt is making them longer and / or you need to HAND torque the front cap a little more. Visually verify that the bullet path through the suppressor is unobstructed. Shoot 3-5 rounds to compress the baffle stack and then retorque the cap.



      If you need any replacement parts for your suppressor, the suppressor will need to be returned. Per ATF regulations, we will not ship individual parts even if you send us your damaged parts.
      If you follow these disassembly steps, you'll notice that no propane torches, vice grips, pipe wrenches etc are specified in the disassembly SOP. If you use alternate holding and turning methods, please MAKE SURE that you don't damage the suppressor. The potential for most damage should be obvious before it happens. You should be able to disassemble and reassemble your suppressor for a lifetime of use without damaging the unit. If you do damage the suppressor tube (which has the serial number), per ATF regulations we are unable to replace the damaged tube with another tube with the same number.  A damaged tube means the suppressor is lost.
      If you give up and can't get it apart, or you just don't want to fool with it, BEFORE you damage the suppressor, we can usually get any suppressor apart at our facility. Disassembly and cleaning is based on our shop rate of $65 / hour with a one hour minimum. Depending on how badly your suppressor is leaded together, we can usually get it disassembled and back together in approx an hour of shop time as well as whatever parts need to be replaced. Contact us for a work order form before shipping your suppressor back to us.


    What's happened is one of two things, or probably a combination of the two. If the barrel is on the tight side for the threads and the cap is also on the tight side, both will be in spec but it could be a little tighter than would be optimal. At the same time, when you shoot it, pressure in the suppressor will force lead and carbon into the the threads which will also make it harder to unscrew. A little No-Seize or similar thread paste (common for automotive applications such as exhaust manifold bolts) will fill in the threads and not allow lead and carbon to get into the threads.

    The suppressor is designed for USA standard 1/2-28 threads with .400 length of threads. You do not want to use a barrel that has more than .400 length of thread since then the threads will protrude into the suppressor beyond the threaded cap and the threads will quickly become covered with lead and carbon. In order to unscrew the suppressor cap from the barrel, you will have to force the exposed crusty threads through the cap with the cap having to literally cut the lead and carbon off the threads in order for it to unscrew. This is a common occurrence with longer threads such as on an AR15 with a .22 kit and requires a spacer to keep the threads in the cap and not exposed in the suppressor.

    The good news is that it does happen occasionally but shouldn't be too hard to remedy. First thing would be to oil the threads between the cap and the barrel and then screw the tube back on tightly and see if that will allow the cap to unscrew. If that does not work, you should be able to unscrew the tube and then wrap a rag around the cap and unscrew it with you hand. If its on tighter than that, then either there is a thread issue or its been on the gun for a long time and has actually gotten soldered to the barrel from lead and carbon from shooting. Next thing to try would be to put a rubber strap wrench on the threads of the cap and then unscrew it. The only alternative if that does not work would be to use vice grips or similar and damage the threads on the cap to get it to unscrew and then we would have to replace the cap and reassemble the suppressor here per ATF regulations.


    • First you will have to locate a Class 3 dealer in your state that will assist you with the transfer for a pre-agreed upon fee.  ANY class 3 dealer in your state can receive and transfer you a suppressor.   We CANNOT sell you a suppressor directly. You must go through an in-state Class 3 dealer.
    • A law enforcement signature is no longer necessary to purchase a suppressor.  You will have to "notify" the chief law enforcement officer when you submit your paperwork to ATF.  Your local dealer will be able to assist you with the paperwork process as part of the transfer process.
    • Have your in state Class 3 dealer send us a copy of his license with a legible signature and a copy of his SOT receipt if we don't already have it on file. Your in-state Class 3 dealer will help you with the paperwork required to complete the transfer.


    Most people are not aware that an average citizen can own a machine gun or a suppressor (silencer) by completing the appropriate paperwork and paying the corresponding fees. Here is a summary of the basic requirements for NFA ownership (suppressors or machine guns):
    • You have to live in a state that allows its citizens to own the type of firearm that you want to purchase. For instance, some states do not allow any NFA firearms, others allow machine guns but not suppressors while most others allow all NFA.  Your local in-state Class 3 dealer will be able to tell you if you can legally own a suppressor in your state.  Obviously if you are in anti-gun states such as CA, you can NOT own a suppressor.
    • If you can legally own a handgun, then you can legally own a suppressor.  A state issued concealed carry permit has no bearing on an NFA transfer for a suppressor. 
    • You have to meet the federal requirements of the 4473 "Yellow Form", such as 21 or older, clean criminal background, no dishonorable discharge, US citizen, etc. Basically if you can legally purchase a handgun, you can legally purchase an NFA (Class 3) firearm.
    • There is no license required to own an NFA (Class 3) firearm. There is a one time tax that must be paid to ATF when you apply to have the registration transferred to your name. There is no ongoing yearly fees charged by the ATF. For machine guns, suppressors, short barrel shotguns, short barrel rifles and destructive devices, there is a one time $200 tax in addition to the purchase price of the firearm. For an AOW (Any Other Weapon) firearm, there is a $5 transfer tax. Even if you purchase 10 machine guns and 10 suppressors, EACH one would have a $200 tax. ATF will issue a tax stamp for $200 upon your approval and that tax stamp along with the form that it is affixed to is your receipt and proof of legal ownership.
    • You have to be fingerprinted by the CLEO and the print cards are submitted to ATF along with your $200 tax and your completed Form 4 (Application for Tax Paid Transfer and Registration of an NFA Firearm).
    • You have to have the serial number before any paperwork can be printed or processed to begin the transfer to you which means that you have to pay for your firearm in order to start paperwork unless other arrangements are made between you and your instate dealer.
    • It takes about 180 days for ATF to approve the transfer of your NFA firearm to you. During that time, your local dealer who provided you with the Form 4 application, will maintain possession and ownership. After ATF approves the transfer and returns the approved Form 4 to your local dealer, then you can take possession of the suppressor.
    • Some states (such as LA, MD etc) have additional state transfer and licensing requirements. Your local dealer that is handling your transfer will be able to advise you regarding any additional requirements that are specific to your state.


    Everyone wants to know what is the TOTAL Bottom line cost for buying an NFA firearm. Here is our best attempt to give you a total cost. Remember that it will vary by state and local requirements and this list is intended to serve as an estimate, not as an all inclusive list encumpassing every possibility in every situation. Therefore we can not guarantee that your buying experience will work out financially exactly the same.
    1. Cost of the firearm and any accessories
    2. Shipping and insurance from us to your local in-state dealer if you don't buy it from an in-state stocking dealer.
    3. $200 one time transfer tax for EACH NFA item EVERY TIME YOU BUY ANOTHER ONE. There is no annual fee.
    4. Local Class 3 dealer charge, generally $50 - $100 but actual fee is between you and the dealer you workout. Different local in-state dealers charge different fees and also offer varying degrees of service. It's between you and your dealer. Stocking Dealers generally charge no fee since they are buying from us at wholesale and selling to you at MSRP.
    5. Local CLEO fee for finger prints. Some charge, some don't.


    Given that you can meet the purchasing requirements outlined above, we will receive NFA firearms from out of state dealers and process Form 4 transfers to qualified ID residents for $100 per NFA firearm.
    • Larger firearms requiring more storage space, such as most beltfeds and Destructive Devices, will be subject to additional storage charges.
    • We are not selling you a gun, we are providing a transfer service. Sales tax, if due, is your responsibility.
    • A transfer is a transfer. We will not negotiate with your out of state dealer. We will not call him to ask questions. We will not get involved in any disputes or legal proceedings between you and your dealer. We will not process shipping damage claims. We will not fill out his paperwork for the transfer from the out of state dealer to us. For the $100 transfer fee, we will mail a license to the out of state dealer. We will receive your firearm and log it into our inventory. It must arrive shipping prepaid. We will not pay for any COD shipments, regardless of the amount. We will print and mail you paperwork and will store your firearm until ATF returns your approved transfer, at which time we will contact you to arrange a time for the transfer. You should inspect your firearm(s) before they are transferred to us. If a firearm arrives and you decide not to do the Form 4 transfer to yourself and want the gun transferred to another out of state dealer, the same $100 fee still applies for our time, accounting, storage and paperwork.
    • Firearms not received by you within 3 years from the date of our receipt FOR ANY REASON will be deemed abandoned property and you relinquish any title or claim to the firearm. In other words, we will not store it forever.
    • Your firearm will not be fired, displayed or handled (other than to verify serial numbers etc) while in our possession.
    • While in our possession, your firearm will be boxed in identical condition as received. In other words, we will not clean it, shoot it etc while its here.

    All of our .22LR suppressors are threaded 1/2x28 tpi. One of the advantages of having a threaded muzzle suppressor is that you can easily move it from one threaded gun to another thus maximizing the use of the suppressor. Some firearms, like the Walther P22 and the factory threaded SIG Mosquito are easily adapted for a suppressor by simply installing one of our thread adapters which require no gunsmithing or machine work. Other firearms, like a Ruger 10/22, you can simply swap the barrel for one of ours that are already professionally threaded, for not much more than a CNC barrel threading job would cost with shipping each way.

    For other firearms, the barrel would need to be threaded correctly. The firm that threads the barrel should have previous experience in barrel threading. It is our recommendation that you don't have "a friend" experiment on your barrel for his first attempt using a 1926 flat belt lathe that he has to dust off to use. One the barrel is threaded incorrectly, it can not be "re-done". The barrel would have to be cut and threaded shorter which often is not possible since the new length would then be less than the 16.0" required for a rifle per ATF regulations. Improper threading could also result in damage to the suppressor, such as baffle and endcap strikes.

    Before you thread (or have a barrel threaded), you should make your machinist aware of the following guidelines (in no particular order):

    1. If possible, it should be CNC threaded and not done on a manual lathe since the CNC will not give you the wasted clearance groove at the shoulder.

    2. If you have to do it manually, the clearance groove should be as minimal as possible and not .125. A clearance groove of .093 or LESS is preferable (since you only have .400 of thread, you don't want to waste 25% of it on a clearance groove).

    3. The thread should be 1/2 x 28 tpi and it should be verified on certified go / no-go ring gauges.

    4. You should have .400 length of thread from the shoulder, nothing longer.

    5. The shoulder should be .600 OD and must be square and perpendicular.

    6. The thread must be concentric to the ID bore. The barrel should be turned on centers since the bore is never concentric with the OD of the barrel.

    7. A thread protector should be installed to make sure that the threads are not damaged when not in use.

    8. If possible, its advantageous for the firm doing the threading to have the endcap so that they can verify that the fit between the barrel and the cap are a perfect match.

    9. The barrel material should be steel. Barrels that are carbon fiber or other plastics do not hold up well for threading.

    10. Multiple adapters will increase the angular error and increase the probability of a baffle strike.

    11. You will NOT be able to determine if the barrel is threaded correctly by dropping a cleaning rod in it, looking down it, etc. If your accuracy is way off, most likely the bullet it rubbing the endcap on the way out of the suppressor due to an alignment issue.

    12. We do not thread barrels (other than CZ 75 Kadet handgun barrels). Please do not send us your gun or your barrel. We will ship it back at your expense without threading it. For threading, any machine shop or local gunsmith, as well as a variety of firms that advertise on the internet, should be able to provide you with a professional threading job at a reasonable price.

    Email if you have any questions that we've missed.

    PROP 65 WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to