Customers that have relied on our .22LR suppressors for years have continued to ask for an all stainless suppressor made for .22 Magnum and .17 HMR in addition to .22LR. Our newest offering, the Banshee™ is an all stainless steel suppressor that is made specifically for .22 magnum and all .17 RIMFIRE cartridges which will of course also work exceptionally well with all .22LR ammo. Like all of our .22LR line, the Banshee™ can be disassembled by the customer for cleaning and service.
|1. PELLET GUN PERFORMANCE|
The reality of current suppressor designs and manufacture is that most current production suppressors use proven 2 stage K baffles, as does the Banshee™. However, we've added blast baffles and chambers (features usually only found on centerfire suppressors) to provide a lot of suppression and durability for a rimfire suppressor.
Although our meters can quantify db differences between suppressors, db measurements will vary between days, guns, ammunition etc. As a result, we build our suppressor baffle stack first based on our meter and then modify it based on human perception feedback. For instance, a slightly higher db at a different frequency might appear quieter based on the shooter's ability to hear it. Similarly, duration of peak db will have a different impression on your ear. For instance, a micro second at one db level will set a peak level on our meter (regardless of its duration), but it still sounds more quiet than 2 or 3 times the peak length of time at a slightly lower db level. Based on the wide range of differences in db data collection, data integrity and data interpretation, we do not publish meter generated db reductions (which have become somewhat of a joke in the suppressor industry). We are confident that when you shoot a Bashee™ suppressor, you'll agree that its performance delivers.
|2. COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLE TO CLEAN OR SERVICE (By The User)|
|Anyone that's shot .22 rimfire ammo knows how dirty it is. In additon to the dirt, with a suppressor, every shot sends a mist of molten lead out the barrel with the bullet. When the molten lead hits the suppressor, it hardens. An ultrasonic cleaner or home brew solvent will get the carbon out of the suppressor but it will not remove the lead. The ONLY way to remove lead is to disassemble the suppressor and either wire brush or bead blast it off the baffles. Our Banshee™ suppressor, like all of our .22 LR suppressors, can be completely disassembled by the user to include the removal of both endcaps and all the internal baffles, and then cleaned and reassembled. If you don't believe that .22LR ANYTHING can be "sealed and self cleaning", then the ability to disassemble and clean your suppressor is a feature that will keep your suppressor operating at peak performance for many years to come without costly returns to the manufacturer for service.|
|3. BLACK LIQUID CERAMIC FINISH|
|Our Banshee™ suppressor is available in a matte black finish that is as durable as it is beautiful. The suppressor tube and both endcaps are professionally finsihed in hard liquid ceramic.|
|4. PROFESSIONALLY LASER ENGRAVED|
|To compliment the black liquid ceramic finish, each suppressor is professionally laser engraved in compliance with BATFE marking requirements, indicating its serial number, model, manufacturer and caliber. Laser engraving costs a few dollars more but anything less looks like it costs a lot less. The Banshee™ suppressor delivers performance and appearance at a cost that continues to amaze buyers.|
|5. CAD DESIGNED and CNC MANUFACTURED|
|Every piece of a Banshee™ suppressor is CAD designed and CNC manufactured in our modern CNC machine shop out of American certified stainless steel. The backbone of any suppressor is the baffle stack and each baffle is individually lathe machined. There are no stamped parts, hardware store washers, screens, wipes, grease or any other parts that will wear out or have to be repetitively replaced. Our commitment to manufacturing excellence assures you consistent parts interchangeability and the finest workmanship available.
|6. MULTIPLE PLATFORM VERSITILITY|
One of the major advantages of a screw on "muzzle can" suppressor compared to an integrally suppressed firearm is that it can be used on multiple firearms to best suit the requirement. The Banshee™ suppressor is designed for either handgun or rifle use and works well on traditional mounting platforms.
One other advantage of a screw on suppressor is that it can be disassembled from either end by removing BOTH endcaps to drive the baffles out either end. By comparison, the suppressor on an integrally suppressed firearm (assuming the manufacturer even designed it with the capability of removing the front endcap) quickly becomes soldered together with lead from firing making it difficult, and often impossible to pull the baffles out the front of the assembly.
|7. IF OUR NAME IS ON IT, WE MAKE IT AND SERVICE IT|
|Many other "manufacturers" put their name on a product that they don't build. EVERY Banshee™ suppressor that we sell, we make every piece of it and are intimately familiar with its function, assembly and operation. We operate a fulltime firearm CNC manufacturing machine shop with live customer service, not answering machines. We have the parts, the staff and the experience in-house to service and troubleshoot our products, resulting in fast turnarounds and hassle free service for you, our valued customer. You should expect nothing less from any other suppressor manufacturer.|
|8. MYTH: "IT HAS TO BE EXPENSIVE TO WORK WELL"|
|The truth is that suppressors don't have all that much material in them and volume production with our modern CNC lathes make manufacturing costs per unit very reasonable. We base our profit margins on volume, which means we can sell our suppressors at prices that are considerably lower than many other manufacturers' prices that produce small quantity runs or even individual "handmade pieces". Our modern CNC machines ensure the highest workmanship and consistent quality part after part.
Frequently Asked Questions For
BANSHEE™ - STAINLESS STEEL .22 MAG / .17 HMR / .22LR SUPPRESSOR
All Tactical Innovations .22LR suppressors have threaded endcaps to allow the user to disassemble them for cleaning and service. Many manufacturers will claim to have "self cleaning" suppressors or that swishing a solvent in the suppressor will sufficiently clean your suppressor. We all know how dirty .22's are, and suppressors wind up with a lot of that dirt in them as well as an accumulated lead build up each time you fire a round through it. Ultrasonic cleaners will remove the carbon and dirt but WILL NOT remove the lead build up.
There are two different schools of thought on the suppressor cleaning issue. Most users are willing to clean their suppressor as necessary to ensure its long life with no problems while other users never disassemble their unit and attempt to clean it as much as possible by soaking or ultrasonic, without ever disassembling it. If you choose to not disassemble your suppressor, eventually it will get leaded up to the point that it will no longer be functional and disassembly will be difficult to impossible. While it's true that you can get away without cleaning a .22LR suppressor for a long time (possibly 10's of 1000's of rounds), eventually the lead will get so thick that the bullet will literally have to squeeze through the now undersize hole in the baffle. If you're the kind of shooter that shoots your suppressor A LOT, we want you to be as happy with your suppressor years down the road as you are with it when you get it. The ability to disassemble the suppressor for cleaning or service without the need to return the suppressor to the manufacturer to have it cut open as some other manufacturers require, is a significant advantage of the Tactical Innovations series of suppressors compared to other manufacturers' offerings.
Since rimfire ammo is not jacketed (the copper coated washed bullets are not the same as a jacketed bullet), you will experience lead buildup in addition to carbon and dirt. Each time you shoot, a mist of lead leaves the barrel and when it reaches the colder suppressor, it will instantly harden on the suppressor surface and continually build up. The frequency of cleaning will depend on the ammunition that you shoot, since some are dirtier than others. We suggest that you clean your suppressor the first time after a couple 100 rounds so you'll understand the process before it gets more difficult to disassemble. There is no need to clean it any more often than you have to based on your comfort level when disassembling it. Generally 2500 to 3500 rounds has been the preferred cleaning frequency that customers have reported but many customers wait for 5000+ rounds. More frequent cleaning intervals, such as after each use, are not necessary and serve no benefit to the suppressor.
Cleaning without disassembly can easily be accomplished with either an ultrasonic cleaner or simply soak it by immersion in a parts washer. DO NOT USE anything flamable for a cleaner, such as gasoline or kerosene, since you stand the risk of exploding the suppressor when you next fire it. Drain it completely, wash it out well with water, shake out any excess water, fire a round or 2 to get the remaining water out and then lightly mist spray with non-flamable oil. You'll be able to remove the dirt and carbon using this method but you will not be able to remove the lead.
MY CAP IS STUCK ON MY RIFLE/PISTOL. WHAT SHOULD I DO?
What's happened is one of two things, or probably a combination of the two. If the barrel is on the tight side for the threads and the cap is also on the tight side, both will be in spec but it could be a little tighter than would be optimal. At the same time, when you shoot it, pressure in the suppressor will force lead and carbon into the the threads which will also make it harder to unscrew. A little No-Seize or similar thread paste (common for automotive applications such as exhaust manifold bolts) will fill in the threads and not allow lead and carbon to get into the threads.
The suppressor is designed for USA standard 1/2-28 threads with .400 length of threads. You do not want to use a barrel that has more than .400 length of thread since then the threads will protrude into the suppressor beyond the threaded cap and the threads will quickly become covered with lead and carbon. In order to unscrew the suppressor cap from the barrel, you will have to force the exposed crusty threads through the cap with the cap having to literally cut the lead and carbon off the threads in order for it to unscrew. This is a common occurrence with longer threads such as on an AR15 with a .22 kit and requires a spacer to keep the threads in the cap and not exposed in the suppressor.
The good news is that it does happen occasionally but shouldn't be too hard to remedy. First thing would be to oil the threads between the cap and the barrel and then screw the tube back on tightly and see if that will allow the cap to unscrew. If that does not work, you should be able to unscrew the tube and then wrap a rag around the cap and unscrew it with you hand. If its on tighter than that, then either there is a thread issue or its been on the gun for a long time and has actually gotten soldered to the barrel from lead and carbon from shooting. Next thing to try would be to put a rubber strap wrench on the threads of the cap and then unscrew it. The only alternative if that does not work would be to use vice grips or similar and damage the threads on the cap to get it to unscrew and then we would have to replace the cap and reassemble the suppressor here per ATF regulations.
|HOW TO BUY A SUPPRESSOR|
|SUPPRESSOR PURCHASING REQUIREMENTS|
Most people are not aware that an average citizen can own a machine gun or a suppressor (silencer) by completing the appropriate paperwork and paying the corresponding fees. Here is a summary of the basic requirements for NFA ownership (suppressors or machine guns):
|TOTAL COST FOR NFA PURCHASE|
Everyone wants to know what is the TOTAL Bottom line cost for buying an NFA firearm. Here is our best attempt to give you a total cost. Remember that it will vary by state and local requirements and this list is intended to serve as an estimate, not as an all inclusive list encumpassing every possibility in every situation. Therefore we can not guarantee that your buying experience will work out financially exactly the same.
|NFA TRANSFERS FOR IDAHO RESIDENTS
Given that you can meet the purchasing requirements outlined above, we will receive NFA firearms from out of state dealers and process Form 4 transfers to qualified ID residents for $100 per NFA firearm.
All of our .22LR suppressors are threaded 1/2x28 tpi. One of the advantages of having a threaded muzzle suppressor is that you can easily move it from one threaded gun to another thus maximizing the use of the suppressor. Some firearms, like the Walther P22 and the factory threaded SIG Mosquito are easily adapted for a suppressor by simply installing one of our thread adapters which require no gunsmithing or machine work. Other firearms, like a Ruger 10/22, you can simply swap the barrel for one of ours that are already professionally threaded, for not much more than a CNC barrel threading job would cost with shipping each way.
For other firearms, the barrel would need to be threaded correctly. The firm that threads the barrel should have previous experience in barrel threading. It is our recommendation that you don't have "a friend" experiment on your barrel for his first attempt using a 1926 flat belt lathe that he has to dust off to use. One the barrel is threaded incorrectly, it can not be "re-done". The barrel would have to be cut and threaded shorter which often is not possible since the new length would then be less than the 16.0" required for a rifle per ATF regulations. Improper threading could also result in damage to the suppressor, such as baffle and endcap strikes.
Before you thread (or have a barrel threaded), you should make your machinist aware of the following guidelines (in no particular order):
1. If possible, it should be CNC threaded and not done on a manual lathe since the CNC will not give you the wasted clearance groove at the shoulder.
2. If you have to do it manually, the clearance groove should be as minimal as possible and not .125. A clearance groove of .093 or LESS is preferable (since you only have .400 of thread, you don't want to waste 25% of it on a clearance groove).
3. The thread should be 1/2 x 28 tpi and it should be verified on certified go / no-go ring gauges.
4. You should have .400 length of thread from the shoulder, nothing longer.
5. The shoulder should be .600 OD and must be square and perpendicular.
6. The thread must be concentric to the ID bore. The barrel should be turned on centers since the bore is never concentric with the OD of the barrel.
7. A thread protector should be installed to make sure that the threads are not damaged when not in use.
8. If possible, its advantageous for the firm doing the threading to have the endcap so that they can verify that the fit between the barrel and the cap are a perfect match.
9. The barrel material should be steel. Barrels that are carbon fiber or other plastics do not hold up well for threading.
10. Multiple adapters will increase the angular error and increase the probability of a baffle strike.
11. You will NOT be able to determine if the barrel is threaded correctly by dropping a cleaning rod in it, looking down it, etc. If your accuracy is way off, most likely the bullet it rubbing the endcap on the way out of the suppressor due to an alignment issue.
12. We do not thread barrels (other than CZ 75 Kadet handgun barrels). Please do not send us your gun or your barrel. We will ship it back at your expense without threading it. For threading, any machine shop or local gunsmith, as well as a variety of firms that advertise on the internet, should be able to provide you with a professional threading job at a reasonable price.
Email if you have any questions that we've missed