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  • A suppressor MUST ship to a Class 3 dealer in your state. The federal $200 transfer tax (from your dealer to you), sales tax (if applicable) and your dealer's transfer fee are NOT included in the sale price and are the buyer's responsibility.


Customers that have relied on our .22LR suppressor line for years and have continued to ask for an all stainless suppressor made for .22LR continuous full auto fire.  Our DIAMOND suppressor is all stainless steel and is made specifically for .22LR long full auto drum dumps back to back.  Now you now longer have to use your centerfire M16 suppressor on your AM180 or AM15!  The DIAMOND suppressor is made just for your hard full auto applications.  Like all of our .22LR suppressor line, the DIAMOND can be disassembled by the customer for cleaning and service. 


The reality of current suppressor designs and manufacture is that most current production suppressors use proven 2 stage K baffles, as does the DIAMOND.  However, we've added blast baffles and chambers (features usually only found on centerfire suppressors) as well as radial cooling fins to provide a lot of suppression and durability in a rimfire suppressor.

Although our meters can quantify db differences between suppressors, db measurements will vary between days, guns, ammunition etc. As a result, we build our suppressor baffle stack first based on our meter and then modify it based on human perception feedback. For instance, a slightly higher db at a different frequency might appear quieter based on the shooter's ability to hear it. Similarly, duration of peak db will have a different impression on your ear. For instance, a micro second at one db level will set a peak level on our meter (regardless of its duration), but it still sounds more quiet than 2 or 3 times the peak length of time at a slightly lower db level. Based on the wide range of differences in db data collection, data integrity and data interpretation, we do not publish meter generated db reductions (which have become somewhat of a joke in the suppressor industry). We are confident that when you shoot a DIAMOND suppressor, you'll agree that its performance delivers.

Anyone that's shot .22 rimfire ammo knows how dirty it is. In additon to the dirt, with a suppressor, every shot sends a mist of molten lead out the barrel with the bullet. When the molten lead hits the suppressor, it hardens. An ultrasonic cleaner or home brew solvent will get the carbon out of the suppressor but it will not remove the lead. The ONLY way to remove lead is to disassemble the suppressor and either wire brush or bead blast it off the baffles.  Our DIAMOND suppressor, like all of our .22 LR suppressors, can be completely disassembled by the user to include the removal of both endcaps and all the internal baffles, and then cleaned and reassembled. If you don't believe that .22LR ANYTHING can be "sealed and self cleaning", then the ability to disassemble and clean your suppressor is a feature that will keep your suppressor operating at peak performance for many years to come without costly returns to the manufacturer for service.
Our DIAMOND suppressor is available in a matte black finish that is as durable as it is beautiful. The suppressor tube and both endcaps are professionally finsihed in hard liquid ceramic. 
To compliment the black liquid ceramic finish, each suppressor is professionally laser engraved in compliance with BATFE marking requirements, indicating its serial number, model, manufacturer and caliber.  Laser engraving costs a few dollars more but anything less looks like it costs a lot less. The DIAMOND suppressor delivers performance and appearance at a cost that continues to amaze buyers.
Every piece of a DIAMOND suppressor is CAD designed and CNC manufactured in our modern CNC machine shop out of American certified stainless steel. The backbone of any suppressor is the baffle stack and each baffle is individually lathe machined. There are no stamped parts, hardware store washers, screens, wipes, grease or any other parts that will wear out or have to be repetitively replaced. Our commitment to manufacturing excellence assures you consistent parts interchangeability and the finest workmanship available.

One of the major advantages of a screw on "muzzle can" suppressor compared to an integrally suppressed firearm is that it can be used on multiple firearms to best suit the requirement. The DIAMOND suppressor is designed for either handgun or rifle use and works well on traditional mounting platforms. 

One other advantage of a screw on suppressor is that it can be disassembled from either end by removing BOTH endcaps to drive the baffles out either end. By comparison, the suppressor on an integrally suppressed firearm (assuming the manufacturer even designed it with the capability of removing the front endcap) quickly becomes soldered together with lead from firing making it difficult, and often impossible to pull the baffles out the front of the assembly.

Many other "manufacturers" put their name on a product that they don't build. EVERY DIAMOND suppressor that we sell, we make every piece of it and are intimately familiar with its function, assembly and operation. We operate a fulltime firearm CNC manufacturing machine shop with live customer service, not answering machines. We have the parts, the staff and the experience in-house to service and troubleshoot our products, resulting in fast turnarounds and hassle free service for you, our valued customer. You should expect nothing less from any other suppressor manufacturer.
The truth is that suppressors don't have all that much material in them and volume production with our modern CNC lathes make manufacturing costs per unit very reasonable. We base our profit margins on volume, which means we can sell our suppressors at prices that are considerably lower than many other manufacturers' prices that produce small quantity runs or even individual "handmade pieces". Our modern CNC machines ensure the highest workmanship and consistent quality part after part.


  • MANUFACTURER Tactical Innovations Inc.
  • APPLICATION .22LR Rifles or Pistols
  • MOUNTING THREAD 1/2 x 28 TPI - .400 Length
  • MATERIAL 100% Stainless Steel - Tube, Endcaps & Internals
  • FINISH Matte Black Liquid Ceramic
  • WEIGHT 10.8 Ounces
  • LENGTH 5.75"
  • DIAMETER - OD 1.125" With Ventilated Cooling Fins
  • BAFFLE DESIGN Ported Two Stage "K" Baffles and Blast Baffles
  • BAFFLE MATERIAL Stainless Steel
  • ACCESSORIES 3 Lug Disassembly Tools Optional, Available Separately
  • NOTES: Suppressor can be completely disassembled by the user for cleaning (recommended).


  • TAC65

  • Tactical Innovations offers multiple .22LR suppressors in different construction materials, sizes and prices to suit virtually any use, requirement, budget or personal perference. In addition, all of our .22LR suppressors can be disassembled for cleaning and service by the user and are supported by our commitment to customer service.

    TAC65 - "The Work horse"

    The TAC65 is our most popular suppressor. It has often been described as the perfect intersection between performance, cost, and size. Its a "workhorse" that continues to deliver year after year for a price that can't be beat. For most shooters that want a solid can at a price that won't break the bank, the TAC65 is the perfect companion for your rifle or pistol every time you go camping, hiking, hunting, plinking or fishing.

    STRATUS - Minimum Size & Weight

    The .22LR STRATUS suppressor, as its name describes, at 2.4 ounces is so light that many customers have to look inside it to make sure it's not an empty tube! Every possible machine work element and performance feature is included in the STRATUS suppressor, to include lightening where ever possible, vortex exit cap, constant pressure two stage "K" baffle system, and minimum size and length, all in a package that is approximately 3/4" shorter and almost 1/10 of an inch smaller in diameter than our TAC65. For customers that want the smallest, lightest, quietest possible suppressor, the STRATUS is it. We've had customers ask what we would build for a lightweight .22LR suppressor if price was no option... even at multiple times the price, and there are no additonal features that we'd be able to add or incorporate regardless of the price. Given its premium features, performance, size and weight, and all at a production price, our STRATUS suppressor is an easy choice!

    QUEST - Compact Stainless for Semi or Full Auto

    The only way to improve on the STRATUS suppressor was to make it out of stainless steel. The QUEST suppressor is the same geometry, size, premium features and performance as the Stratus, but instead of an ultra lightweight aluminum package, the QUEST's stainless steel construction makes it robust enough for responsible full auto fire, while still being light enough for traditional handgun and rifle use. For customers that want a multipurpose can, or that shoot A LOT and want a suppressor that can handle years of shooting and cleaning, the QUEST is the suppresor you'll want.

    DIAMOND - Hard Full Auto Fire

    Very few customers will need our DIAMOND suppressor, but for those that do, there is NOTHING else like it! Too many customers were using our TAC16 .223 suppressor for hard full auto .22LR fire, and although it works, it's too big and heavy for a .22LR application. The DIAMOND suppressor is made for HARD .22LR FULL AUTO FIRE, such as from our AM15 or an AM180. Multiple 275 round drums back to back is what the DIAMOND is made for. Its stainless steel construction, incorporating both blast baffles and "K" baffles, along with its custom radially finned exterior, makes it a premium suppressor that delivers drum after drum. Although its weight makes it marginally uncomfortable for traditional .22LR handguns and rifles, for rimfire full auto blasting, the DIAMOND suppressor has no equal for strength, performance and size.  

    Overall Rating: 5 out of 5 2 reviews

    Review This Product

    By Battlefield Of Virginia
    We have been in the class three business for twenty five years and have seen many suppressor manufacturers and products. Although it may seem simple, making and supporting a good .22 suppressor is a tough assignment. When you step out on the limb and make one that lets the user take it apart, clean it and then put it back together.......well that says a bunch about the confidence in your product. We have sold dozens of tactical innovations suppressors for everything from a Walther P22 to a Ruger 10/22 and have never had a single complaint. Compare them against any other product and you will see yourself. They are top shelf.
    By Steve Of Arizona
    WOW! I've been using an old 223 can on my AM15 and it was too big and heavy and long so I sprung for a Diamond can since they said it was a perfect fit for full auto .22 shooting and that's what I like to do (cause I'm cheap!!!). As usual the transfer took forever (thanks for nothing ATF) but I eventually got it and have been shooting the xxxx out of it and have no complaints. You can see the heat coming off it around the cooling fins, which look cook and actually work. I don't know how many tens of many thousands of rounds I've put through this thing already but its now my most used suppressor and I don't see any signs of wear on the baffles yet at all when I clean it. This one is a home run and worth every penny.

    Frequently Asked Questions For


    1. Can I really order this suppressor on-line and you'll ship it to me?!
    2. Can anyone legally own a suppressor?
    3. Can I shoot my suppressor on a fully automatic firearm?
    4. Can I shoot .223 / 5.56mm through my DIAMOND suppressor on my AR15?
    5. Will the suppressor affect my accuracy?
    6. Can I shoot this suppressor on multiple firearms including rifles and handguns?
    7. What is the DIAMOND suppressor db reduction?
    8. How often should a this suppressor be disassembled for cleaning?
    9. What support can I expect from Tactical Innovations if I have questions or need service?
    10. Can I send Tactical Innovations my gun(s) / barrel(s) to thread?
    11. Can I shoot calibers other than .22LR through it?
    12. Can I request a custom serial number?
    13. Can I purchase the suppressor tube only, with no internals with no paperwork?
    14. Can I purchase the internals or endcaps with no paperwork?
    15. Do you recommend any other accessories to go with this suppressor?
    16. Can I use a muzzle nut coupling instead of threading my barrels for use with my DIAMOND suppressor?
    17. How much is shipping on this suppressor?
    18. Will Tactical Innovations rebuild other manufacturers' suppressors that I now own?
    19. Is this price the "dealer" price or "retail" price?
    1. Can I really order this suppressor on-line and you'll ship it to me?!
      Of course not... Suppressors (silencers) are NFA restriced firearms and must transfer in strict compliance with federal, state and local regulations. Refer to PURCHASE STEPS tab for detailed purchasing guidelines.
    2. Can anyone legally own a suppressor?
      Depending on which state you live in and whether your local Chief Law Enforcement Officer (CLEO) will sign your federal registration forms, most individuals that can legally own a handgun can legally own an NFA firearm such as a suppressor or machine gun. Refer to PURCHASE STEPS tab for detailed purchasing guidelines.
    3. Can I shoot my suppressor on a fully automatic firearm?
      The DIAMOND Suppressor IS rated for full auto fire. Its heavy duty stainless construction is made for hard fullauto fire. However, when used for full auto fire, care must be taken not to overheat the suppressor to the point that it could be damaged. You should use the same care that you would use with your firearm or automobile to ensure that you do not cross the line from use to abuse. Volume of fire, barrel length, ambient temperature etc will all be factors contributing to the duty cycle of the suppressor in full auto applications.
    4. Can I shoot .223 / 5.56mm through my DIAMOND suppressor on my AR15?
      Many shooters like to use a .22LR conversion kit on their M16/AR15 and the DIAMOND is a perfect fit for .22LR firing. However, even though you can have the suppressor on your rifle and could physically shoot a .223 round through it, due to the extremely higher pressures of the .223 / 5.56 ammunition, the DIAMOND suppressor could be damaged or destroyed with possible injury to the shooter and / or bystanders. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES SHOOT A .223 / 5.56MM ROUND THROUGH A DIAMOND OR ANY OTHER SUPPRESSOR DESIGNED FOR .22LR AMMUNITION.
    5. Will the suppressor affect my accuracy?
      The suppressor should have minimal shift change on the impact of the bullet as compared to shooting with no suppressor for general recreational target shooting. The additional weight on the barrel will change how the barrel flexes and vibrates when fired, which will change your point of impact. For general plinking, just shoot it, but before using the suppressor for hunting or other "serious" target shooting, you should re-sight the firearm with the suppressor installed to compensate for any differences.
    6. Can I shoot this suppressor on multiple firearms including rifles and handguns?
      Although the DIAMOND will work on any .22LR firearm that is correctly threaded 1/2 x 28 tpi, its made for rifle use. Although it will work well on pistols, its robust construction makes it heavy for traditional handgun use.
    7. What is the DIAMOND suppressor db reduction?
      We agree with other reputable manufacturers and have stopped publishing db reduction numbers. While we own and use the same meters for R&D and testing that other manufacturers use, we also tune our designs based on perceived "ear" noise, which is often contradictory to what the meter indicates. Sound from the DIAMOND with .22LR sub-sonic ammunition will sound like a pellet gun. When using the suppressor on a firearm with a barrel longer than approx 3.5", you will have to shoot subsonic ammunition in order to not have the sonic crack from the bullet accelerating to supersonic speeds. Supersonic rounds will sound like an un-suppressed .22LR die to the sonic crack when the bullet exceeds the speed of sound.
    8. How often should a this suppressor be disassembled for cleaning?
      Each time you shoot any .22LR ammo, a mist of lead leaves the barrel and when it reaches the colder suppressor, it will instantly harden on the suppressor surface and continually build up. Since .22LR ammo is not jacketed (even the gold covered ammo is dipped, not jacketed), you will experience lead buildup in addition to carbon and dirt. Due to the ammunition, suppressors wind up with a lot of that dirt in them. Ultrasonic cleaners will remove the carbon and dirt but WILL NOT remove the lead build up. The ability to disassemble the suppressor for cleaning or service without the need to return the suppressor to the manufacturer to have it cut open as required by other manufacturers, is a significant advantage of the DIAMOND suppressor over other manufacturers' offerings. The frequency of cleaning will depend on the ammunition that you shoot, since some are dirtier than others. Generally 2500 to 3500 rounds has been the preferred cleaning frequency that customers have reported.
    9. What support can I expect from Tactical Innovations if I have questions or need service?
      Tactical Innovations is a FULL TIME firearm related manufacturing facility, in business for over 13 years. We have fulltime staff to answer telephone calls during business hours. When you purchase from us or one of our dealers, you have the support of the manufacturer behind each suppressor. If you have a question or problem, you'll deal directly with the source, not a middle man with no manufacturing or product experience. We want your business and will do whatever we can to continue to earn it.
    10. Can I send Tactical Innovations my gun(s) / barrel(s) to thread?
      We currently are not taking in any barrel threading work due to peak manufacturing production demands. Most local gunsmiths as well as machine shops should be able to correctly thread your barrel for a nominal charge. We have a list of barrel threading tips that you can provide to your gunsmith or machine shop to help ensure a perfect job. Refer to the BARREL THREADING tab for detailed purchasing guidelines.
    11. Can I shoot calibers other than .22LR through it?
      Although many customers have had good experiences shooting the DIAMOND on firearms of calibers other than those that its rated for at their own risk by using common sense and good judgement, the DIAMOND is not rated for any calibers other than .22LR. In order for us to rate it for other calibers, we would have a responsibility to be able to provide purchasers with data regarding the safe use of the suppressor using different ammunition, from different barrel length firearms, that could be used without damaging the suppressor or potentially causing injury to the shooter and or bystanders. The time required to accurately generate that data is not commensurate with the demand, so we've instead elected to rate the DIAMOND for use ONLY with .22LR ammunition. Other calibers will have varying pressures and could damage the suppressor and / or cause personal injury to the shooter or bystanders, and therefore their use is not recommended and they should not be used. Safe firearm handling and use would preclude the use of any firearm or suppressor with ammunition other than that for which it was designed.
    12. Can I request a custom serial number?
      In order to keep our manufacturing costs as low as possible, custom serial numbers are unfortunately not available.
    13. Can I purchase the suppressor tube only, with no internals with no paperwork?
      Of course not. The tube is a registered NFA firearm and must be transferred identically to a complete suppressor with the accompanying paperwork and tax due per federal law. It is not legal, please do not call to ask us.
    14. Can I purchase the internals or endcaps with no paperwork?
      Absolutely not. Suppressor components, as in each individual internal piece, are restricted and cannot be sold to individuals per federal law. You can not buy one internal baffle or even one endcap. No "kit" is available for suppressors. It is not legal, please do not call to ask us. In the unlikely event your BANSHEE suppressor should need any service, it must be returned to our facility for service, no exceptions.
    15. Do you recommend any other accessories to go with this suppressor?
      We offer our 3 lug BANSHEE Assembly / Disassembly Tool to make taking the suppressor apart for cleaning or service a much easier task. Two are recommended so you have one for each end when disassembling the suppressor.
    16. Can I use a muzzle nut coupling instead of threading my barrels for use with my DIAMOND suppressor?
      While the use of a muzzle nut coupling instead of threading multiple barrels appears to be an inexpensive and fast solution to threading each barrel, the use of any muzzle nut coupling would void any factory complimentary repair work because as the bores of a barrel is drilled, the drill "walks" a little over the length from the starting end to the muzzle end. This means that the bore is never EXACTLY in the middle of the barrel, so if you clamp a muzzle coupling on the the barrel, the bore will be off center to the suppressor and there is a high probability that you will shoot your endcap and / or baffles, causing sever damage to the suppressor.
    17. How much is shipping on this suppressor?
      Suppressor shipping costs vary depending on the carrier you prefer and your geographic location. Shipping options are available on our shopping cart as part of the Checkout Process. In order to save time and money, we would encourage you to purchase from a local in-state stocking dealer. In the event no stocking dealer is available, we will ship to any Class 3 dealer that you designate.
    18. Will Tactical Innovations rebuild other manufacturers' suppressors that I now own?
      At present we only service our own suppressors and do not service or rebuild other manufacturers' suppressors. You should contact the manufacturer of your other suppressors for them to service it.
    19. Is this price the "dealer" price or "retail" price?
      Individuals may purchase this suppressor on-line but must work out the transfer arrangements and fees with their local in-state Class 3 dealer. FFL dealers with a current SOT should fax (208-267-1597) or email their dealer paperwork for confidential dealer pricing. Call or email if you have any questions and we'll be glad to help.

    All Tactical Innovations .22LR suppressors have threaded endcaps to allow the user to disassemble them for cleaning and service. Many manufacturers will claim to have "self cleaning" suppressors or that swishing a solvent in the suppressor will sufficiently clean your suppressor. We all know how dirty .22's are, and suppressors wind up with a lot of that dirt in them as well as an accumulated lead build up each time you fire a round through it. Ultrasonic cleaners will remove the carbon and dirt but WILL NOT remove the lead build up.

    There are two different schools of thought on the suppressor cleaning issue. Most users are willing to clean their suppressor as necessary to ensure its long life with no problems while other users never disassemble their unit and attempt to clean it as much as possible by soaking or ultrasonic, without ever disassembling it. If you choose to not disassemble your suppressor, eventually it will get leaded up to the point that it will no longer be functional and disassembly will be difficult to impossible. While its true that you can get away without cleaning a suppressor for a long time (possibly 10's of 1000's of rounds), eventually the lead will get so thick that the bullet will literally have to squeeze through the now undersize hole in the baffle. If you're the kind of shooter that we are, and you want to shoot your suppressor A LOT, we want you to be as happy with your suppressor years down the road as you are with it when you get it. The ability to disassemble the suppressor for cleaning or service without the need to return the suppressor to the manufacturer to have it cut open as required by other manufacturers, is a significant advantage of the Tactical Innovations series of suppressors compared to other manufacturers' offerings.

    Since .22LR ammo is not jacketed (the copper coated washed bullets are not the same as a jacketed bullet), you will experience lead buildup in addition to carbon and dirt. Each time you shoot any .22LR ammo, a mist of lead leaves the barrel and when it reaches the colder suppressor, it will instantly harden on the suppressor surface and continually build up. The frequency of cleaning will depend on the ammunition that you shoot, since some are dirtier than others. We suggest that you clean your suppressor the first time after a couple 100 rounds so you'll understand the process before it gets too hard to take it apart. There is no need to clean it any more often than you have to based on your difficulty to disassemble it. Generally 2500 to 3500 rounds has been the preferred cleaning frequency that customers have reported but many customers wait for 5000+ rounds. More frequent cleaning intervals, such as after each use, are not necessary and serve no benefit to the suppressor.

    Cleaning without disassembly can easily be accomplished with either an ultrasonic cleaner or simply soak it by immersion in a parts washer. DO NOT USE anything flamable for a cleaner, such as gasoline or kerosene, since you stand the risk of exploding the suppressor when you next fire it. Drain it completely, wash it out well with water, shake out any excess water, fire a round or 2 to get the remaining water out and then lightly mist spray with non-flamable oil. You'll be able to remove the dirt and carbon using this method but your will not be able to remove the lead.


      After ensuring that your firearm is not loaded, remove the suppressor from the firearm. You CANNOT take it apart while its still attached to the firearm.
      The can should be soaked prior to disassembly to aid in disassembly. We recommend a gallon of WD40 in a large plastic jar and leave it in to soak overnight. Spraying some oil into the can will be of minimal to no benefit. Soak it. After soaking, remove from the oil, drain, wash the exterior to remove any oil, dry the exterior.
      You will need MINIMALLY one Assembly & Disassembly Tool to unscrew the caps. We recommend two. Put one tool into a vice and lock it in. Stand the suppressor up on the tool. Place the second tool on the top of the suppressor. Use a 1" wrench to turn the top tool while at the same time push the suppressor down on the bottom tool. Loosen whichever cap unscrews first only about 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. Do not completely unscrew the cap. Just loosen it at this point.
      Whichever cap loosened first, align that cap with the driver tool that is locked in the vice. Put the still tight cap up. Align the second driver tool into the still tight top cap. Use either a rubber strap wrench or someone with really strong hands to turn the suppressor tube clockwise while you unscrew the top cap. Completely remove the top cap, then either by hand or with the strap wrench, completely remove the already loosened bottom cap.
      The baffles will be difficult to remove from the tube since the lead has soldered them together and into the tube. You will be able to see the lead build up especially on the first baffle. There will be a ring of lead around each baffle which has to be broken in order to drive the baffles from the tube. Use a 3/4" diameter wooden dowel cut 7 inches long to tap / hammer the baffles out. The easiest and safest way to accomplish this is to have your buddy hold the tube in the air while you use the dowel and a plastic face lead deadblow hammer to tap the baffles out, alternating from one end to the next. Once you get the first one moving, the rest will move as well since the lead ring has been broken.
      Use a soft brush to clean the inside of the tube so that you can slide the baffles back in for reassembly. Do not use any hard brushes that will damage the finish inside of the suppressor tube. Scrub the insides of the caps. Do not scrub the threads. After a lot of use, it may become necessary to clean the 1/2x28 thread with a class 2B tap. A tap can be purchased on our website, part number 02030. Use caution when chasing the threads with a tap since the tap is capable of incorrectly cutting new threads in the cap. The tap should be used by hand only to clean the existing threads if necessary.
      The baffles will never be shiny stainless and they don't need to be. Use a brush to clean the baffles to remove any large deposits, ensuring that the ports and vents are not in any way blocked. If you have access to a blast cabinet, you can lightly blast the baffles which provides a quick very thorough cleaning. However, use caution not to damage the baffles by carelessly excessively abrasive blasting them.
      A small amount of "Anti-Seize" or "No Seize" (which is used on automobile exhaust manifold bolts and is available at any auto parts store) on the endcap OD threads, will facilitate future disassembly. To assemble, screw the rear cap (1/2x28 hole in it) into the tube first, paying attention to orient the lettering on the tube correctly. Use the driver tool that is still in the vice to hand tighten the rear cap as tightly as you can get it by hand. DO NOT use the strap wrench or any other tools. Insert the baffles from the front of the can. First should be a long ring spacer, then a flat blast baffle(with the bevel around the hole toward the rear of the can), then a short ring spacer, then a second flat blast baffle, then a second short ring spacer,  then the first of the "K" baffles with the flat surface first and the cone second (the bullet goes through the flat part of the baffle first), continue installing "K" baffles spiraling the baffles every 90 degrees counterclockwise as you put them in. There will be 5 "K" baffles total. Screw on the front cap and use the same driver in the vice to HAND torque it. You should have tight baffle compression between the caps and there should be between 0.000 and 0.004 gap between the tube and the front cap (about the thickness of a piece of paper). If there is more than that, the baffles are not clean and the dirt is making them longer and / or you need to HAND torque the front cap a little more. Visually verify that the bullet path through the suppressor is unobstructed. Shoot 3-5 rounds to compress the baffle stack and then retorque the cap.


      If you need any replacement parts for your suppressor, the suppressor will need to be returned. We will not ship individual parts even if you send us your damaged parts.
      If you follow these disassembly steps, you'll notice that no propane torches, vice grips, pipe wrenches etc are specified in the disassembly SOP. If you use alternate holding and turning methods, please MAKE SURE that you don't damage the suppressor. The potential for most damage should be obvious before it happens. You should be able to disassemble and reassemble your suppressor for a lifetime of use without damaging the unit.
      If you give up and can't get it apart, or you just don't want to fool with it, BEFORE you damage the suppressor, we can usually get any suppressor apart at our facility. Disassembly and cleaning is based on our shop rate of $65 / hour with a one hour minimum. Depending on how badly your suppressor is leaded together, we can usually get it disassembled and back together in approx an hour of shop time as well as whatever parts need to be replaced. Contact us for a work order form before shipping your suppressor back to us.

      Email or call if any questions, we're glad to help!


    What's happened is one of two things, or probably a combination of the two. If the barrel is on the tight side for the threads and the cap is also on the tight side, both will be in spec but it could be a little tighter than would be optimal. At the same time, when you shoot it, pressure in the suppressor will force lead and carbon into the the threads which will also make it harder to unscrew. A little No-Seize or similar thread paste (common for automotive applications such as exhaust manifold bolts) will fill in the threads and not allow lead and carbon to get into the threads.

    The suppressor is designed for USA standard 1/2-28 threads with .400 length of threads. You do not want to use a barrel that has more than .400 length of thread since then the threads will protrude into the suppressor beyond the threaded cap and the threads will quickly become covered with lead and carbon. In order to unscrew the suppressor cap from the barrel, you will have to force the exposed crusty threads through the cap with the cap having to literally cut the lead and carbon off the threads in order for it to unscrew. This is a common occurrence with longer threads such as on an AR15 with a .22 kit and requires a spacer to keep the threads in the cap and not exposed in the suppressor.

    The good news is that it does happen occasionally but shouldn't be too hard to remedy. First thing would be to oil the threads between the cap and the barrel and then screw the tube back on tightly and see if that will allow the cap to unscrew. If that does not work, you should be able to unscrew the tube and then wrap a rag around the cap and unscrew it with you hand. If its on tighter than that, then either there is a thread issue or its been on the gun for a long time and has actually gotten soldered to the barrel from lead and carbon from shooting. Next thing to try would be to put a rubber strap wrench on the threads of the cap and then unscrew it. The only alternative if that does not work would be to use vice grips or similar and damage the threads on the cap to get it to unscrew and then we would have to replace the cap and reassemble the suppressor here per ATF regulations.


    • First you will have to locate a Class 3 dealer in your state that will assist you with the transfer for a pre-agreed upon fee.  ANY class 3 dealer in your state can receive and transfer you a suppressor.   We CANNOT sell you a suppressor directly. You must go through an in-state Class 3 dealer.
    • A law enforcement signature is no longer necessary to purchase a suppressor.  You will have to "notify" the chief law enforcement officer when you submit your paperwork to ATF.  Your local dealer will be able to assist you with the paperwork process as part of the transfer process.
    • Have your in state Class 3 dealer send us a copy of his license with a legible signature and a copy of his SOT receipt if we don't already have it on file. Your in-state Class 3 dealer will help you with the paperwork required to complete the transfer.


    Most people are not aware that an average citizen can own a machine gun or a suppressor (silencer) by completing the appropriate paperwork and paying the corresponding fees. Here is a summary of the basic requirements for NFA ownership (suppressors or machine guns):
    • You have to live in a state that allows its citizens to own the type of firearm that you want to purchase. For instance, some states do not allow any NFA firearms, others allow machine guns but not suppressors while most others allow all NFA.  Your local in-state Class 3 dealer will be able to tell you if you can legally own a suppressor in your state.  Obviously if you are in anti-gun states such as CA, you can NOT own a suppressor.
    • If you can legally own a handgun, then you can legally own a suppressor.  A state issued concealed carry permit has no bearing on an NFA transfer for a suppressor. 
    • You have to meet the federal requirements of the 4473 "Yellow Form", such as 21 or older, clean criminal background, no dishonorable discharge, US citizen, etc. Basically if you can legally purchase a handgun, you can legally purchase an NFA (Class 3) firearm.
    • There is no license required to own an NFA (Class 3) firearm. There is a one time tax that must be paid to ATF when you apply to have the registration transferred to your name. There is no ongoing yearly fees charged by the ATF. For machine guns, suppressors, short barrel shotguns, short barrel rifles and destructive devices, there is a one time $200 tax in addition to the purchase price of the firearm. For an AOW (Any Other Weapon) firearm, there is a $5 transfer tax. Even if you purchase 10 machine guns and 10 suppressors, EACH one would have a $200 tax. ATF will issue a tax stamp for $200 upon your approval and that tax stamp along with the form that it is affixed to is your receipt and proof of legal ownership.
    • You have to be fingerprinted by the CLEO and the print cards are submitted to ATF along with your $200 tax and your completed Form 4 (Application for Tax Paid Transfer and Registration of an NFA Firearm).
    • You have to have the serial number before any paperwork can be printed or processed to begin the transfer to you which means that you have to pay for your firearm in order to start paperwork unless other arrangements are made between you and your instate dealer.
    • It takes about 180 days for ATF to approve the transfer of your NFA firearm to you. During that time, your local dealer who provided you with the Form 4 application, will maintain possession and ownership. After ATF approves the transfer and returns the approved Form 4 to your local dealer, then you can take possession of the suppressor.
    • Some states (such as LA, MD etc) have additional state transfer and licensing requirements. Your local dealer that is handling your transfer will be able to advise you regarding any additional requirements that are specific to your state.


    Everyone wants to know what is the TOTAL Bottom line cost for buying an NFA firearm. Here is our best attempt to give you a total cost. Remember that it will vary by state and local requirements and this list is intended to serve as an estimate, not as an all inclusive list encumpassing every possibility in every situation. Therefore we can not guarantee that your buying experience will work out financially exactly the same.
    1. Cost of the firearm and any accessories
    2. Shipping and insurance from us to your local in-state dealer if you don't buy it from an in-state stocking dealer.
    3. $200 one time transfer tax for EACH NFA item EVERY TIME YOU BUY ANOTHER ONE. There is no annual fee.
    4. Local Class 3 dealer charge, generally $50 - $100 but actual fee is between you and the dealer you workout. Different local in-state dealers charge different fees and also offer varying degrees of service. It's between you and your dealer. Stocking Dealers generally charge no fee since they are buying from us at wholesale and selling to you at MSRP.
    5. Local CLEO fee for finger prints. Some charge, some don't.


    Given that you can meet the purchasing requirements outlined above, we will receive NFA firearms from out of state dealers and process Form 4 transfers to qualified ID residents for $100 per NFA firearm.
    • Larger firearms requiring more storage space, such as most beltfeds and Destructive Devices, will be subject to additional storage charges.
    • We are not selling you a gun, we are providing a transfer service. Sales tax, if due, is your responsibility.
    • A transfer is a transfer. We will not negotiate with your out of state dealer. We will not call him to ask questions. We will not get involved in any disputes or legal proceedings between you and your dealer. We will not process shipping damage claims. We will not fill out his paperwork for the transfer from the out of state dealer to us. For the $100 transfer fee, we will mail a license to the out of state dealer. We will receive your firearm and log it into our inventory. It must arrive shipping prepaid. We will not pay for any COD shipments, regardless of the amount. We will print and mail you paperwork and will store your firearm until ATF returns your approved transfer, at which time we will contact you to arrange a time for the transfer. You should inspect your firearm(s) before they are transferred to us. If a firearm arrives and you decide not to do the Form 4 transfer to yourself and want the gun transferred to another out of state dealer, the same $100 fee still applies for our time, accounting, storage and paperwork.
    • Firearms not received by you within 3 years from the date of our receipt FOR ANY REASON will be deemed abandoned property and you relinquish any title or claim to the firearm. In other words, we will not store it forever.
    • Your firearm will not be fired, displayed or handled (other than to verify serial numbers etc) while in our possession.
    • While in our possession, your firearm will be boxed in identical condition as received. In other words, we will not clean it, shoot it etc while its here.

    All of our .22LR suppressors are threaded 1/2x28 tpi. One of the advantages of having a threaded muzzle suppressor is that you can easily move it from one threaded gun to another thus maximizing the use of the suppressor. Some firearms, like the Walther P22 and the factory threaded SIG Mosquito are easily adapted for a suppressor by simply installing one of our thread adapters which require no gunsmithing or machine work. Other firearms, like a Ruger 10/22, you can simply swap the barrel for one of ours that are already professionally threaded, for not much more than a CNC barrel threading job would cost with shipping each way.

    For other firearms, the barrel would need to be threaded correctly. The firm that threads the barrel should have previous experience in barrel threading. It is our recommendation that you don't have "a friend" experiment on your barrel for his first attempt using a 1926 flat belt lathe that he has to dust off to use. One the barrel is threaded incorrectly, it can not be "re-done". The barrel would have to be cut and threaded shorter which often is not possible since the new length would then be less than the 16.0" required for a rifle per ATF regulations. Improper threading could also result in damage to the suppressor, such as baffle and endcap strikes.

    Before you thread (or have a barrel threaded), you should make your machinist aware of the following guidelines (in no particular order):

    1. If possible, it should be CNC threaded and not done on a manual lathe since the CNC will not give you the wasted clearance groove at the shoulder.

    2. If you have to do it manually, the clearance groove should be as minimal as possible and not .125. A clearance groove of .093 or LESS is preferable (since you only have .400 of thread, you don't want to waste 25% of it on a clearance groove).

    3. The thread should be 1/2 x 28 tpi and it should be verified on certified go / no-go ring gauges.

    4. You should have .400 length of thread from the shoulder, nothing longer.

    5. The shoulder should be .600 OD and must be square and perpendicular.

    6. The thread must be concentric to the ID bore. The barrel should be turned on centers since the bore is never concentric with the OD of the barrel.

    7. A thread protector should be installed to make sure that the threads are not damaged when not in use.

    8. If possible, its advantageous for the firm doing the threading to have the endcap so that they can verify that the fit between the barrel and the cap are a perfect match.

    9. The barrel material should be steel. Barrels that are carbon fiber or other plastics do not hold up well for threading.

    10. Multiple adapters will increase the angular error and increase the probability of a baffle strike.

    11. You will NOT be able to determine if the barrel is threaded correctly by dropping a cleaning rod in it, looking down it, etc. If your accuracy is way off, most likely the bullet it rubbing the endcap on the way out of the suppressor due to an alignment issue.

    12. We do not thread barrels (other than CZ 75 Kadet handgun barrels). Please do not send us your gun or your barrel. We will ship it back at your expense without threading it. For threading, any machine shop or local gunsmith, as well as a variety of firms that advertise on the internet, should be able to provide you with a professional threading job at a reasonable price.

    Email if you have any questions that we've missed.

    PROP 65 WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to