ECONOMY TOOLING PACKAGE FOR PIKE ARMS® 80% ELITE22™ AND ELITE22TD™ 10/22® STYLE RECEIVER BLANKS
In one package, we have all the drill bits and taps you will need to complete both the Pike Arms® ELITE22™ 80% receiver blank or the ELITE22TD™ TAKEDOWN receiver blank. The "Economy" designation means that the drill bits are imported (not cobalt, tin coated etc.) and are of sufficent quality to complete one or more 80% ALUMINUM receivers. However, if you are going to complete production quantity multiple receivers or one of the Pike Arms® ELITE22S™ 80% 416R STAINLESS STEEL Receivers, you should use American made production quality CNC qualified drill bits.
This Economy Tooling Package containes one each of the following:
INSTRUCTIONS FOR COMPLETING THE PIKE ARMS® ELITE22™ & ELITE22TD™ "80%" RECEIVER BLANK
In order to complete your Pike Arms® ELITE22™ 80% RECEIVER BLANK, you will need the following drill bits and tap:
RIGHT SIDE OF RECEIVER:
Place the RECEIVER JIG on the right side of the receiver with the R1, R2 etc holes visible. Ensure that the receiver jig is securely against the bottom of the receiver and also securely against the rear of the magwell. The jig should then be tightly clamped against the side of the receiver. It is preferred to use two smaller clamps that can clamp inside the receiver and then clamp the jig to the side of the receiver rather than to clamp to the other side of the receiver. USE EXTREME CAUTION if you clamp to the other side of the receiver that you do not bend or crush the receiver with the clamp. The jig should also be clamped from the bottom of the jig to the top of the receiver to ensure that it is not capable of slipping down.
NOTE when drilling holes that go though both sides of the receiver, we drill them from each side individually and not all the way through in one pass. This will help prevent misalignment.
The first hole to drill is R1, which is the buffer right side hole, which is drilled with a 1/4" drill bit. Drill only through the right side of the receiver. DO NOT drill all the way though to drill the left side of the receiver.
Change to a 3/16" drill bit in order to drill the trigger assembly cross pin holes, labeled on the jig as R2 and R3.
DO NOT DRILL B1 AT THIS TIME. IT IS NOT DRILLED ON THE RIGHT SIDE.
Remove the jig from the receiver. The right side of the receiver is complete.
LEFT SIDE OF RECEIVER:
Now place the RECEIVER JIG on the left side of the receiver with the L1, L2 etc holes visible. Ensure that the receiver jig is securely against the bottom of the receiver and also securely against the rear of the magwell. The jig should then be tightly clamped against the side of the receiver. Clamp the jig in place identically as was done for the right side as specified above.
Using the same 3/16" drill bit, drill the left side of the L2 and L3 holes for the trigger assembly cross pin holes.
Change back to the 1/4" drill bit and now drill the left side of the buffer hole marked on the jig as L1.
Remove the jig from the receiver. The left side of the receiver is complete.
REAR OF RECEIVER:
The rear / back of the receiver has the ability to have a clean out hole included as an option. If you want to be able to run a rod through the receiver to push the rod out the muzzle (a preferred method) then you will have to drill the rear cleanout hole.
With the rear of the receiver facing up (barrel facing the table), place the jig on the rear of the receiver with the B1 labeled hole in the center of the rear of the receiver. The jig is indexed off of the right and bottom of the receiver. Clamp the jig securely and drill a 1/4" hole.
Remove the jig. The rear of the receiver is complete.
FRONT OF RECEIVER:
Using the barrel portion of the jig, slide the jig into the receiver and clamp between the bottom of the jig and the top rail of the receiver.
With the receiver in a vice and ensuring that it is exactly vertical and not leaning in any direction, use an 11/16" drill bit to drill the barrel hole marked F1. It is VERY important that you get this hole straight since it will determine the alignment of your barrel in the receiver. If this hole is not straight, your barrel will not ever be able to be aligned with your scope. The rear of the receiver is exactly parallel to the position that the hole needs to be drilled so you can stand the receiver on its end. Since you are going to be drilling a big hole, make sure that you have it very securely clamped in a vice before drilling the hole. This is the one step that someone with some machinist background would be very useful to have assist.
With the jig in the same position, change to your #16 drill bit and drill the two cap screw holes marked F2 and F3 for the V-block cap screws. Drill these holes all the way through.
Using the same #16 drill bit, flip the receiver so that it is on the rail and drill the stock attaching screw hole in the bottom which is not marked on the jig.
Remove the jig. All exterior holes have been drilled and the jigs are no longer required.
The last hole that needs to be drilled is the detent for the spring op rod. The spring op rod detent is a small pocket that is required in order for the op rod to stay correctly in place in the receiver when assembled.
Change your drill to the 8" long 1/8" drill bit. With the receiver standing on the rear of the receiver (same position as you used to drill the barrel hole), drill through the barrel hole all the way down to the small exposed surface and carefully spot the area for the op rod. This is a detent and not a deep hole. Do not drill this hole too deeply. You can use an op rod to "feel" if you are deep enough which is indicated by the rod securely staying in the detent and not being able to be easily pushed out of the detent.
Using a 12-24 tpi tap, hand tap the two cap screw holes for the V-block all the way through. Make sure to use oil and extreme care not to overload the tap and snap it off in the hole (which would render the receiver not usable).
Using the same 12-24 tap, also tap the hole for the stock attaching screw.
CLEANUP AND FINE TUNING:
1. All of the holes will be below the stock line and will not be visible when the rifle is assembled. However, if you want the drilled holes to also be black, you can use ALUMABLACK (Birchwood Casey) on the holes to blacken the newly drilled holes.
2. If any of the holes are too sharp, they will need to be deburred with either a larger drill bit or an exacto knife etc. All holes should be smooth at the surface.
3. Depending on the cap screws that are used to attach the V-block, you may have to counter sink the two threaded holes to allow them to be screwed all the way in tightly since many do not have threads all the way to the should head of the screw. If you want / need to countersink the holes, use a 1/4" drill bit and drill into the same holes for approx .500 (half of an inch) to provide clearance for the cap screws. DO NOT over drill the holes. If you drill them too deep to countersink the holes, you will not have enough threads left to torque the v-block cap screws and the receiver will be unusable.
Your receiver is now complete and may be assembled the same as any other 10/22 style receiver.