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CH22™ BILLET MACHINED REAR CHARGING HANDLE REPLACEMENT 10/22® RECEIVER
Now your can have the functionality and familiarity of your AR15 receiver in your Ruger 10/22 rifle with our CH22 - "Charging Handle 22" Receiver. The receiver is precision machined to exacting tolerances from billet aluminum and incorporates a stainless steel charging handle that operates like your AR15 at a fraction of the cost. Upgrade your reliable Ruger 10/22 rifle to the next generation of functionality!
| 1. STAINLESS STEEL REAR CHARGING HANDLE | |
 
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The CH22 billet precision machined receiver incorporates a stainless steel charging handle in the rear of the receiver that eliminates the traditional factory charging handle on the side of the rifle. The charging handle for the CH22 receiver operates transparently within the integral picatinney rail. Like an AR15, the rear charging handle makes charging or clearing your rifle fast and easy. The charging handle does not reciprocate with the bolt each time the rifle is fired and it is secured firmly in the closed position using a spring loaded ball detent.
The use of a rear charging handle on the CH22 provides many functional and operational advantages not available with a traditional side charging factory bolt setup. Some of the advantages are: |
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SMALLER SIZE EJECTION PORT The absence of the factory charging handle allows the ejection port size to be decreased since now you only need the ejection port for ejecting spent brass rather than having the port elongated to accommodate the charging handle. The smaller ejection port means that less dirt should be able to get into the gun and you have a more streamlined side appearance.
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NO FACTORY RECIPROCATING CHARGING HANDLE Having a rear charging handle means that you don't have the traditional factory charging handle flying back and forth each time you fire the rifle. Many shooters have added "Jumbo" and oversize charging handles to make the rifle easier to charge and clear but which also makes more mass reciprocating with each shot. The lack of a size charging handle also gives you a smooth side to the gun so you don't catch the charging handle on your gun case or your jacket when transporting or handling the rifle. |
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AMBIDEXTROUS FOR BOTH LEFT & RIGHT HANDED SHOOTERS Left handed shooters rejoice! We can't make the brass come out the other side but the rear charging handle of the CH22 is truly ambidextrous offering the same convenient charging location for either right or left handed shooters. |
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FAMILIAR AR15 STYLE CHARGING MOTION Now your Ruger 10/22 will have the same familiar functional feel as your AR15 style rifle. When you need to charge or clear the rifle, your brain already knows the location and the motion from operating your AR15 rifle thousands of times. That same familiarity will immediately make your CH22 rifle feel and function like a familiar friend rather than having to fumble for the bolt mounted charging handle. |
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MAINTAIN RIGHT HANDED GRIP ON RIFLE WHILE CHARGING OR CLEARING A right handed shooter does not naturally want to reach across the rifle and charge the bolt on the right side of the rifle with his left hand. Most Ruger 10/22 shooters will put the rifle in their left hand and charge with their right hand, which takes their shooting grip off the rifle each time. With the CH22 receiver, your right hand stays on the stock where it should be and your left hand charges the rifle. You never have to change your grip when firing or clearing the rifle!
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| 2. EASILY ASSEMBLE USING YOUR FACTORY 10/22 OR CHARGER PARTS | |
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The CH22 Receiver comes with all the parts you need to easily convert your Ruger 10/22 rifle or Ruger Charger pistol to operate as a rear charging firearm. In addition to the CH22 receiver, the following parts are included as standard:
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| 3. VIRGIN RECEIVER CAN BE ASSEMBLED AS A RIFLE OR A PISTOL | |
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Since the CH22 receiver has never been assembled as either a rifle or a pistol, ATF classifies it as a virgin receiver which allows you to assemble it in either a rifle or a pistol configuration. Its designation would be determined based on the configuration in which it is first assembled. The CH22 receiver is the perfect foundation for either a custom pistol or a precision rifle.
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| 4. RECEIVER PRECISION MACHINED FROM AIRCRAFT GRADE BILLET ALUMINUM BLOCKS | |
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The CH22 Replacement 10/22 Receiver starts as a 1 1/2 pound solid billet of 6061 T6 aircraft aluminum. Extensive CNC machining converts the solid block into an 8.3 ounces precision receiver that does not have the rougher surface finish and casting imperfections that a cast receiver would frequently include. All dimensions of the receiver are held to close tolerances for reliable consistency.
We offer a variety of Ruger 10/22 Accessories to compliment your custom built rifle, such as Replacement Barrels, TI25 Machined Aluminum Mags, TI25 Advanced Composite Mags as well as Stocks and Flash Hiders. |
| 5. CLEAN FROM THE CHAMBER TO THE MUZZLE | |
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Target shooters have always known that the correct way to clean a rifle is from the chamber and out the muzzle rather than pushing all the dirt from the barrel into the receiver and potentially damaging the barrel crown with the cleaning rod. Our receivers have a 1/4" hole in the rear of the receiver that allows you to put a cleaning rod in the rear of the receiver, then attach the brush and swab the barrel from the chamber to the muzzle without having to remove the barrel (and loose your zero each time). The cleaning access hole is cosmetically covered with a snap fit plug that blends with the rear of the receiver when installed and that is completely hidden when the receiver is in the stock. |
| 6. EXTENDED PICATINNY PRECISON MACHINED RAIL | |
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Rather than put a lesser quality cast rail on a precision machined receiver, our Picatinny rail is also machined from solid billet aluminum as a part of the receiver rather than a bolted on accessory. The hard black anodized Picatinny style rail extends beyond the front of the receiver to provide additional optic mounting options. The rail is mil-spec to fit popular scopes and accessory optics such as Eotech or Reddot optics from most major manufacturers. |
| 7. HARD ANODIZED AND PROFESSIONALLY LASER ENGRAVED | |
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The receiver is matte finished for durability and appearance and is professionally hard black anodized. Anodizing is not a paint or a spray on finish, its a molecular change in the surface of the aluminum that forms crystals (like diamonds) on the outside of the material. Its the same finish that space and defense contractors and the military require on their parts.
To compliment the matte black anodized finish, each receiver is professionally laser engraved in compliance with BATFE marking requirements, indicating its serial number, model and manufacturer information. Laser engraving costs a few dollars more than traditional rotary engraving, but anything less looks like it. The CH22 receiver delivers in appearance and performance at a value cost. |
| 8. IF OUR NAME IS ON IT, WE MAKE IT AND SERVICE IT | |
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Many other "manufacturers" put their name on a product that they don't manufacture. Our CH22 receiver is CAD designed and CNC manufactured in our modern CNC machine shop out of USA certified aircraft grade aluminum. We are intimately familiar with its function, assembly and operation and are committed to providing shooters with a product that meets or exceeds their expectations.
We operate a full time firearms and related accessories CNC manufacturing machine shop with live customer service and have the parts, the staff and the experience in-house to service and troubleshoot our products, resulting in fast turnarounds and hassle free service for you, our valued customer. As always, we appreciate your business! |
* Rifles shown are for reference only and are NOT included with the stripped receiver
Frequently Asked Questions For
| CH22™ "CHARGING HANDLE" REPLACEMENT 10/22 RECEIVER - FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS |
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1. Is an FFL rquired to purchase this receiver? Can you ship it directly to me? 2. Do I need a special bolt? Can I use a Ruger factory bolt? 3. What exactly is included with this receiver? 4. Can I assemble this receiver as either a rifle or a pistol? Does it have to be marked either way? 5. Can I use this receiver for any caliber other than the .22LR that its designed for? 6. Is the receiver available with different height or different length rails? 7. What other parts do I need to assemble a complete custom rifle or pistol?
8. Will this receiver interchange with my factory Ruger 10/22 receiver? 9. Will this receiver interchange with my factory Ruger 10/22 receiver? 10. What barrel does this receiver use? Threaded or factory press fit? 11. Will the Ruger factory charging handle and spring assembly work with this receiver? 12. Will this receiver work well with a scope? 13. Will the factory iron sights mounted on the barrel still work with this receiver? |
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You can easily complete a rifle or pistol 10/22 style compatible
receiver that can then be assembled with Ruger factory 10/22 parts or
with our billet machined parts for a high quality custom firearm. In order to assemble a complete custom rifle, you will need the following additional parts:
1. Bolt Assembly (Includes Bolt, Sharp Claw Extractor, Stainless Steel Firing Pin)
2. Charging Handle Assembly (Charging Handle, Rod, Spring)
3. Bolt Buffer
4. V-Block & V-Block Cap Screws (you will need one V-Block and two cap screws)
5. Barrel
6. Trigger Assembly (complete)
7. Receiver Cross Pins
8. Stock
9. Receiver / Stock Takedown Screw
Assembly is as easy as re-assembling a rifle that has been stripped to its major assemblies for cleaning since the more difficult parts are already put together for you (such as the trigger assembly and the bolt). You will have to fit the barrel shank to the receiver per the instructions on each barrel page. For tools, you will need a pack of allen wrenches and in less than an hour, and you can easily assemble your own custom rifle.
TACTICAL
INNOVATIONS’ CH22™
REPLACEMENT 10/22® RECEIVER
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Thank you for your purchase of a Tactical Innovations’ CH22™ receiver. The receiver is precision CNC machined from aircraft 6061 grade aluminum to provide years of reliability and pleasure. Please review these assembly instructions and tips before attempting to assemble your receiver.
The receiver can be assembled with Ruger® factory parts or a custom rifle can be assembled using our billet machined replacement parts. Parts manufactured by third party companies may also work but the use of parts from multiple different manufactures can often be problematic and require additional fitting and troubleshooting as a result of the tolerances for each part from each manufacturer.
BARREL INSTALLATION:
The barrel is installed using a V-Block and cap screws identically to the factory assembly. The shank on the barrel, regardless of the manufacturer, will be larger than the hole in the receiver and will not slip into the receiver without fitting. The receiver barrel hole is precisely machined and should not be “fitted” or modified during the assembly process; only the barrel shank should be fitted to the receiver. It is critical that the barrel shank have a light press fit into the receiver. If the barrel shank is loose in the receiver hole, then the barrel will droop when the V-block is tightened and it will be impossible to align a scope with the point of impact since the barrel will be slightly pointing down and will not be parallel with the bore.
To fit the barrel to the receiver, you will need to only remove a very small amount of material from the barrel shank (the part of the barrel that goes into the receiver hole). Do not use a dremel or similar power tool to grind on the receiver hole or the barrel shank. Use sandpaper or a flat file on the barrel shank only. One method is to roll the barrel across your lap while you use the file or sandpaper in order to ensure that you are removing the same amount of material from all sides of the barrel shank to maintain its concentricity. When fitted to the proper size, and with the barrel shank lightly oiled, you should be able to press the barrel shank into the receiver hole by hand without using a mallet or similar to hammer the barrel into the receiver. It should be tight but you should still be able remove it if necessary and be able to rotate the barrel in order to align the extractor slot with the extractor on the bolt.
With the barrel now fitted into the receiver hole, place the bolt in the receiver WITHOUT the recoil spring and with the bolt retracted for clearance, rotate the barrel so that the extractor in the bolt lines up with the extractor slot in the barrel. Use caution not to pull the extractor out of the bolt when rotating the barrel for alignment. Stand the receiver on the opposite end from the barrel and press down on the barrel into the receiver. Although a traditional V-block is often adequate, an ADJUSTABLE V-BLOCK (Part #00204) is recommended so that you can set the barrel to any angle relative to the bore. Install the V-Block and the cap screws hand tight. Torque the cap screws while pushing down on the barrel and verify that the barrel is not pulling toward the V-block as you tighten the V-Block. If the barrel is correctly fitted to the receiver hole, the barrel will not droop (ie pull toward the V-block). If it does, you will have to use an adjustable V-Block to prevent the barrel from drooping as the V-Block is tightened. Prior to the V-Block being torqued, verify that the extractor in the bolt aligns perfectly with the extractor slot in the barrel. Barrel installation is complete.
BOLT CONSIDERATIONS:
The width of the bolt is critical for safe and reliable operation. Ruger® factory bolts that have been “polished” will often then be too thin from the polishing process removing metal and a slam fire condition is possible. Do not use a Ruger® factory bolt that has been “polished” or otherwise modified in any way. When assembling your rifle, ensure that the bolt that you use is wide enough to not allow the bolt to hit the rim and fire the round if the bolt is pushed all the way to either side of the receiver. The entire rim of the round should always be in the corresponding pocket of the bolt regardless of the left or right position of the bolt in the receiver.
TROUBLE SHOOTING:
Chambering: In order for the rifle to successfully chamber the new round each time, the bolt face has to be smooth and have the correct geometry. Generally, a machined bolt will have a more uniform finish and geometry than a Ruger® factory cast bolt although cast bolts will work most of the time. The recoil spring has to have sufficient force to be able to drive the weight of the bolt forward and strip a round from the magazine. The magazine feedlips have to be designed to ensure that the feed angle will correctly present the round to the chamber. Plastic magazines often will wear out and the feed angle will change. Similarly, different brands of high capacity magazines will have different feed angle geometry resulting in one brand working well and another not working at all. In addition, the actual bullet shape of different brands of ammunition in high capacity magazines will change the feed angle relative to other brands of ammunition that have a different bullet profile. For testing, always use a Ruger® 10 round rotary magazine since the rounds are individually nested and are not stacked on top of each other.
The 10/22® rifle operates based on the blowback of the bolt by the brass when fired. In order for the rifle to function correctly, the recoil of the fired brass has to be greater than the combined resistance of (1) the weight of the bolt, (2) the force of the recoil spring (3) cocking the hammer and (4) the drag of the bolt on the receiver especially whennew, dirty or not oiled. Different brands of ammunition, especially bulk ammunition, will have lighter recoil than ammunition such as CCI® MiniMags®. Similarly, ammunition can have different blowback force from one round to the next due to powder variations in the ammunition. As a result, if the fired round does not blow the bolt all the way rearward each time, you will experience failures to feed as well as failures to eject.
Failure to Feed: When the bolt does not blow back far enough, it will not get behind the next round in the mag in order to strip and push it into the barrel. When this occurs, you will see the bolt stopped and usually dug into the lead bullet of the next round in the magazine. A similar condition, although more difficult to diagnose, occurs when the bolt does not blow back far enough each time and just barely blows back to minimally get behind the next round in the magazine, at which point you will not have the full travel and force of the bolt coming forward to strip the round out of the mag and run it into the chamber. To remedy this issue, you will have to shoot hotter ammo or reduce the countering recoil force as noted above by modifying the recoil spring.
Many third party barrel manufacturers will often use tighter chambers in an effort to increase accuracy. However, the tighter chamber (and often with no feedramp) combined with sharper edges on the chamber face, will make successfully feeding ammo from the magazine to the chamber much more difficult. To successfully feed ammunition into a tighter chamber with no feedramp and sharper edges, you may have to lightly polish the chamber end of the barrel and create a more accessible chamber for the round to be able to feed.
Stovepipe Failure: A stovepipe failure or similar with fired brass ending up jammed in the receiver is usually a function of the extractor on the bolt not pulling the fired brass out of the chamber as the bolt is recoiling to the rear of the receiver. Ideally, the brass would exit the barrel and stay on the face of the bolt without an extractor but the extractor makes sure that the brass leaves the barrel and stays on the bolt while the bolt recoils until the brass hits the ejector with enough force to be thrown out of the gun. If the extractor does not grab the brass out of the chamber or does not hold the brass on the face of the bolt, you should replace the extractor. We offer a Sharp Claw Extractor (Part # 00422 that is EDM cut and not stamped) that will cut into the brass to pull it from the receiver. Most extraction issues are due to the failure of the extractor, which is an easy and inexpensive part to replace.
A stovepipe stoppage can also occur when the bolt does not blow back far enough / hard enough for the brass to strike the ejector with enough force to kick it out of the receiver, and instead it simply falls off the bolt into the receiver. To remedy this issue, you will have to either shoot hotter ammunition or reduce the recoil resistance as noted above, with the easiest option being to clip one or two coils off the recoil spring while continuing to test after clipping each coil.
Reliable function and operation requires that all parts successfully work together as intended. Many issues can be determined and resolved by substituting known non-issue Ruger® factory parts out of the assembly one at a time until the problematic part(s) are identified. Although the majority of rifle assemblies can be completed without any issues (especially when using either all Ruger® parts or all Tactical Innovations’ parts), you should seek competent professional gunsmithing assistance should you encounter a situation that exceeds your comfort or experience level. We are happy to perform a comprehensive measurement and quality check on any of our receivers but do not offer assembly or trouble shooting gunsmithing services.
This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov. 
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