PIKE ARMS® ELITE22TD™ TAKEDOWN
"80 PERCENT" RECEIVER BLANK WITH INTEGRAL PICATINNY RAIL
ATF APPROVED - NO FFL REQUIRED
Now you can easily complete a 10/22® TAKEDOWN style compatible receiver to build your own custom rifle or pistol using the Pike Arms® ATF approved ELITE22TD™ PICATINNY RAIL 80% receiver blank. We've already done the heavy machine work to get you close without yet completing it enough for ATF to consider this receiver blank to be a restricted receiver. Although this 80% receiver blank is not federally classified as a firearm per ATF's evaluation and determination letter, you should also verify that completion of the receiver is done in compliance with all state and local regulations prior to completing the receiver blank into a functioning receiver. This 80% blank is EXACTLY the same as our completed ELITE22TD™ PICATINNY RAIL Takedown Receivers but does not have the final machining done (which are all just holes) in order for it to NOT BE classified and restricted as a finished receiver so it can ship directly to you.
We have all of the profile machining done as well as the bolt pocket and the mag well. All you have to do to compete the receiver is:
1. Drill (or machine) the following few holes:
2. Install the takedown receiver hardware bushing assembly (#08626 not included - available separtately) into the barrel hole.
Hole placement to complete the ELITE22TD PICATINNY RAIL 80% blank into a functioning receiver can easily be
determined by using the Machinist Drawing on the tab labeled "Machinist Drawing" above or by using our PIKE ARMS® ELITE22TD™ RECEIVER HOLE
LOCATING DRILLING FIXTURE (Part #09225 available separately) which
provides exact hole placement as a template. Also available is a PIKE ARMS® 80% RECEIVER TOOLING
PACKAGE (Part #04486) that includes all the correct size drills to
complete the receiver. (See "Related Products" section below)
This Pike Arms® ELITE22TD™ PICATINNY RAIL 80% Receiver Blank is a stripped receiver and does not ship with any additional hardware or parts which will be necessary to complete the receiver into a functional firearm. In order to complete the receiver into a takedown model that is compatible with a Ruger® Takedown rifle, you will need the following receiver hardware bushing assembly which can be purchased in one package as part #08626, or purchased individually as:
1. Part #08281 – PIKE ARMS® Elite22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BUSHING
2. Part #08556 – PIKE ARMS® Elite22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER LOCKING BLOCK
3. Part #08610 – PIKE ARMS® Elite22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BARREL BUSHING SPACER
4. Part #08611 – PIKE ARMS® Elite22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BARREL
BUSHING SPACER ROLL PIN
5. Part #08282 – PIKE ARMS® Elite22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BARREL ADJUSTMENT RING
6. Part #08620 - PIKE ARMS® ELITE22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BARREL ADJUSTMENT RING DETENT
7. Part #08621 – PIKE ARMS® ELITE22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BARREL ADJUSTMENT RING DETENT SPRING
8. Part #00911 (Stainless) or # 00910 (Blue) PIKE ARMS® V-BLOCK CAP SCREWS
You should note prior to completing your Pike Arms® Elite22TD™ PICATINNY RAIL 80% TAKEDOWN Receiver Blank, that the drilled "barrel" hole when using a Ruger® factory receiver
bushing will minimally be a different diameter than the barrel bushing
hole when using the recommended Pike Arms® barrel bushing (Part #08281)
in order to permit the barrel bushing hole in the receiver to be drilled
with a readily available and reasonably priced common size drill bit as
supplied in our Tooling Package (Part #04486). When using a Ruger®
factory receiver barrel bushing from a Ruger® Takedown rifle, you will
have to source the correct size drill bit or interpolate the diameter on
a CNC mill. We strongly suggest and recommend using the Pike Arms®
receiver barrel bushing which will allow the 80% receiver blank to
easily be completed and assembled while still maintaining 100% barrel
interchangability and compatibility with Ruger® factory rifles.
After your receiver has been completed by drilling the remaining holes and by pressing the barrel bushing assembly into the now drilled hole, you can easily complete a 10/22® style compatible rifle or pistol that can then be assembled with Pike Arms® billet machined parts for a high quality custom rifle or pistol. Please note that other manufacturer's parts will often have varying tolerances over which we of course would have no control. Although we guarantee our Elite22® receivers to function with either Pike Arms® parts or Ruger® factory parts, assembly with other third party manufacturer's parts would be your responsibility for compatibility and function.
In order to then assemble your receiver into a complete rifle or pistol you will need the following parts:
3. Bolt Buffer
9. Receiver / Stock Takedown Screw (2 Required For Takedown - One for stock and one for barrel assembly)
Assembly is as easy as re-assembling a rifle that has been stripped to its major assemblies for cleaning. All of the more difficult parts when purchased from us are already pre-assembled for you (such as the trigger assembly and the bolt) and are simple drop in parts. For tools, you will need a pack of allen wrenches and in less than an hour, and you can easily complete and assemble your own custom rifle.
Frequently Asked Questions For
PIKE ARMS® PURPLE
80% RECEIVER WITH PICATINNY RAIL
ATF APPROVED - NO FFL REQUIRED
INSTRUCTIONS FOR COMPLETING THE PIKE ARMS 80% 10/22 STYLE RECEIVER BLANK
In order to complete your 80% RECEIVER BLANK, you will need the following drill bits and tap:
RIGHT SIDE OF RECEIVER:
Place the RECEIVER JIG on the right side of the receiver with the R1, R2 etc holes visible. Ensure that the receiver jig is securely against the bottom of the receiver and also securely against the rear of the magwell. The jig should then be tightly clamped against the side of the receiver. It is preferred to use two smaller clamps that can clamp inside the receiver and then clamp the jig to the side of the receiver rather than to clamp to the other side of the receiver. USE EXTREME CAUTION if you clamp to the other side of the receiver that you do not bend or crush the receiver with the clamp. The jig should also be clamped from the bottom of the jig to the top of the receiver to ensure that it is not capable of slipping down.
NOTE when drilling holes that go though both sides of the receiver, we drill them from each side individually and not all the way through in one pass. This will help prevent misalignment.
The first hole to drill is R1, which is the buffer right side hole, which is drilled with a 1/4" drill bit. Drill only through the right side of the receiver. DO NOT drill all the way though to drill the left side of the receiver.
Change to a 3/16" drill bit in order to drill the trigger assembly cross pin holes, labeled on the jig as R2 and R3.
DO NOT DRILL B1 AT THIS TIME. IT IS NOT DRILLED ON THE RIGHT SIDE.
Remove the jig from the receiver. The right side of the receiver is complete.
LEFT SIDE OF RECEIVER:
Now place the RECEIVER JIG on the left side of the receiver with the L1, L2 etc holes visible. Ensure that the receiver jig is securely against the bottom of the receiver and also securely against the rear of the magwell. The jig should then be tightly clamped against the side of the receiver. Clamp the jig in place identically as was done for the right side as specified above.
Using the same 3/16" drill bit, drill the left side of the L2 and L3 holes for the trigger assembly cross pin holes.
Change back to the 1/4" drill bit and now drill the left side of the buffer hole marked on the jig as L1.
Remove the jig from the receiver. The left side of the receiver is complete.
REAR OF RECEIVER:
The rear / back of the receiver has the ability to have a clean out hole included as an option. If you want to be able to run a rod through the receiver to push the rod out the muzzle (a preferred method) then you will have to drill the rear cleanout hole.
With the rear of the receiver facing up (barrel facing the table), place the jig on the rear of the receiver with the B1 labeled hole in the center of the rear of the receiver. The jig is indexed off of the right and bottom of the receiver. Clamp the jig securely and drill a 1/4" hole.
Remove the jig. The rear of the receiver is complete.
FRONT OF RECEIVER:
Using the barrel portion of the jig, slide the jig into the receiver and clamp between the bottom of the jig and the top rail of the receiver.
With the receiver in a vice and ensuring that it is exactly vertical and not leaning in any direction, use an 11/16" drill bit to drill the barrel hole marked F1. It is VERY important that you get this hole straight since it will determine the alignment of your barrel in the receiver. If this hole is not straight, your barrel will not ever be able to be aligned with your scope. The rear of the receiver is exactly parallel to the position that the hole needs to be drilled so you can stand the receiver on its end. Since you are going to be drilling a big hole, make sure that you have it very securely clamped in a vice before drilling the hole. This is the one step that someone with some machinist background would be very useful to have assist.
In the event you incorrectly drill the barrel hole, there is of course no way to "move" the hole or similarly "un-drill it". However, we do sell a steel bushing that can be used to save receivers that have this hole incorrectly drilled which are available in either blued finish (Part #06706) or stainless steel (Part #06707). The hole would then need to be correctly MILLED (not drilled) to the over size diameter to match the bushing and the bushing would be pressed in, resulting in a perfect barrel to receiver mating surface.
With the jig in the same position, change to your #16 drill bit and drill the two cap screw holes marked F2 and F3 for the V-block cap screws. Drill these holes all the way through.
Depending on the cap screws that are used to attach the V-block as well as the length of the tap you are using, it is often requred or desired to counterbore the two threaded holes (identically to Ruger factory receivers) to allow the cap screws be screwed all the way in tightly since many do not have threads all the way to the shoulder head of the screw. If you want / need to counterborek the holes, use a 1/4" drill bit and drill into the same holes for approx .500 (half of an inch) to provide clearance for the cap screws. DO NOT over drill the holes. If you drill them too deeply to counterbore the holes you will not have enough threads left to torque the v-block cap screws and the receiver will be unusable.
Using the same #16 drill bit, flip the receiver so that it is on the rail and drill the stock attaching screw hole in the bottom which is not marked on the jig.
Remove the jig. All exterior holes have been drilled and the jigs are no longer required.
The last hole that needs to be drilled is the detent for the spring op rod. The spring op rod detent is a small pocket that is required in order for the op rod to stay correctly in place in the receiver when assembled.
Change your drill to the 8" long 1/8" drill bit. With the receiver standing on the rear of the receiver (same position as you used to drill the barrel hole), drill through the barrel hole all the way down to the small exposed surface and carefully spot the area for the op rod. This is a detent and not a deep hole. Do not drill this hole too deeply. You can use an op rod to "feel" if you are deep enough which is indicated by the rod securely staying in the detent and not being able to be easily pushed out of the detent.
10A. Using a 12-24 tpi tap, hand tap the two cap
screw holes for the V-block all the way through. Make sure to use oil and extreme care not to
overload the tap and snap it off in the hole (which would render the receiver
not usable). It will appear that the tap in our tooling kits is not long enough, however if you correctly conterbored the holes approximately .500 for cap screw thread clearance, then you will have more than ample tap length to thread the holes.
10B. Using the same 12-24 tap, also tap the hole for the stock attaching screw.
CLEANUP AND FINE TUNING:
1. All of the holes will be below the stock line and will not be visible when the rifle is assembled. However, if you want the drilled holes to also be black, you can use Birchwood Casey ALUMABLACK (Our Part #02210) on the holes to blacken the newly drilled holes to match a black receiver.
2. If any of the holes are too sharp, they will need to be deburred with either a larger drill bit or an exacto knife etc. All holes should be smooth at the surface.
Your receiver is now complete and may be assembled the same as any other 10/22 style receiver.