16.5" MATTE BLUE - 1:16 TWIST - FINNED - TAKEDOWN MODEL BARREL THREADED 1/2-28 TPI FOR 10/22® WITH THREAD PROTECTOR
Rather than invest the time and expense to get your factory Ruger Takedown 10/22 barrel threaded, and hope it gets done right, we have drop in replacement barrels that are already professionally CNC threaded 1/2x28 TPI and come WITH the thread protector, at a price that's just about what a one off threading job would cost you. The barrels are perfect for any 1/2x28 threaded suppressor or accessory.
The barrels are 4140 series US Certified steel and are polish blued finish. They are 1:16" twist, which is perfect for standard or high velocity ammo and the chamber ends are correctly heat treated identically to the Ruger factory barrels.
The barrels do not have any iron sights installed and are designed to be used with a receiver mounted scope or similar optics. Installation is fast and easy with no modifications to your rifle using your existing plunger locking assembly which is easily moved from the old barrel to this new barrel.
NOTE: A barrel is also shown with the plunger locking assembly installed as well as in a complete rifle, NEITHER OF WHICH ARE INCLUDED WITH THE BARREL. You will have to use the plunger locking assembly from your Ruger factory barrel per the installation instructions.
Frequently Asked Questions For
16.5" POLISHED BLUE - 1:16 TWIST - FINNED - TAKEDOWN MODEL BARREL THREADED 1/2-28 TPI FOR 10/22® WITH THREAD PROTECTOR
BARREL TO RECEIVER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
The Pike Arms Replacement Threaded Barrel for Ruger 10/22 takedown rifles uses the existing Ruger factory hardware from your original barrel. You will need to remove the barrel block and locking assembly and install the same on your new barrel which is easy to do utilizing the following directions:
1. Remove magazine from rifle and clear chamber to ensure that the firearm is NOT loaded.
2. Remove the barrel assembly from the receiver assembly per Ruger's published disassembly instructions.
3. Remove the barrel band from the barrel assembly using a flat blade screwdriver.
4. Remove the forend from the barrel assembly by removing the stock screw with a 5/32 hex / allen wrench.
5. The plunger must now be disassembled. Using a small screwdriver or pick, pull back on the plunger so that you can remove the locking lever. When the plunger is depressed, you will be able to remove the lock lever. Only minimal force is required. Do not use a hammer or a vice etc. Remember to place your hand over the end of the lock pin since it is under spring pressure and will pop out when you remove the plunger.
6. Use a 9/64 hex key / allen wrench to remove the two cap screws that hold the lock block to the barrel.
You are done with the Ruger factory barrel and it can now be placed aside.
7. Using the Pike Arms replacement threaded barrel, reattach the lock black identically back onto the new barrel.
8. Slide the spring back into the lock block then the plunger (big end first), then the lock pin.
9. Compress with your finger until the lock lever starts into the hole. Continue to push lever in until it clicks and locks onto and past the plunger. You have now completed moving the locking assembly to the new barrel.
10. Reattach the forend with the appropriate screw and reinstall the barrel band.
11. Your Pike Arms replacement barrel is not ready to attach to your
receiver assembly identically to the original Ruger factory barrel. From the shooters perspective, rotate the adjusting knob counter clock
wise to its full travel and install the new barrel. It
should have plenty of room and should
actually be loose in the rifle. Once the new barrel is installed and
rotated into position, turn the adjusting knob clockwise to
tighten the barrel into the receiver locking mechanism.
Installation is complete.