Free shipping offer applies to most retail ONLINE orders (not telephone) in the continental USA only with combined products totaling $150 or more (excluding shipping and taxes). Free shipping offer will not apply to orders that include any of: (1) FFL restricted items such as firearms and suppressors; (2) Heavy or Oversize Items; (3) HAZMAT items; (4) Atypical Items that are clearly marked in their respective product descriptions as being not eligible for free shipping. Free shipping carrier and service will be selected by Tactical Innovations and may or may not necessarily be the fastest or the customer's preferred delivery method. Customer may, at their expense, designate their preferred carrier and shipping service during checkout in lieu of this free shipping offer.
A suppressor MUST ship to a Class 3 dealer in your state. The federal $200 transfer tax (from your dealer to you), sales tax (if applicable) and your dealer's transfer fee are NOT included in the sale price and are the buyer's responsibility.
The STRATUS Suppressor combines strength and super lightweight construction into one premium package. At a total weight of only 2.4 ounces, the Stratus Suppressor is so light you will not be able to tell its attached to your firearm, while still providing excellent sound suppression performance on both rifles and pistols.
1. PREMIUM DESIGN, MANUFACTURING AND PERFORMANCE
No machining operation was cut or in any way compromised in the manufacturing process of the STRATUS suppressor. Every component in the suppressor assembly was designed first based on performance and functionality and then based on minimizing weight, NOT based on manufacturing time. For instance, at considerable additional machining time and expense, each ported two stage "K" baffle in the STRATUS suppressor has been additionally machined with "steps" to provide maximum surface area to increase db reduction. Additional baffle porting and vents have been machined into the baffle stack to provide peak flow performance. The result is an enhanced db reduction compared to a baffle stack using un-stepped traditional "K" baffles.
Similarly the endcaps, both have been skelatonized to maximize strength and minimize weight and both end caps have been enhanced to incorporate our proprietary 3 point lug drive disassembly method. The front endcap has been additionally machined inside and outside to provide a gas exit venturi. The sum of all the additional features makes the STRATUS suppressor truely a state of the art assembly that delivers a lightweight package with uncompromising suppression performance.
2. PELLET GUN PERFORMANCE
The reality of current suppressor designs and manufacture is that
most current production suppressors use proven 2 stage K baffles, as
does the STRATUS. Although our meters can quantify db differences between suppressors,
db measurements will vary between days, guns, ammunition etc. As a
result, we build our suppressor baffle stack first based on our meter
and then modify it based on human perception feedback. For instance, a
slightly higher db at a different frequency might appear quieter based
on the shooter's ability to hear it. Similarly, duration of peak db
will have a different impression on your ear. For instance, a micro
second at one db level will set a peak level on our meter (regardless of
its duration), but it still sounds more quiet than 2 or 3 times the
peak length of time at a slightly lower db level. Based on the wide
range of differences in db data collection, data integrity and data
interpretation, we do not publish meter generated db reductions (which
have become somewhat of a joke in the suppressor industry). We are
confident that when you shoot a STRATUS suppressor, you'll agree that
its performance delivers.
3. COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLE TO CLEAN OR SERVICE (By The User)
Anyone that's shot .22 rimfire ammo knows how dirty it is. In additon
to the dirt, with a suppressor, every shot sends a mist of molten lead
out the barrel with the bullet. When the molten lead hits the
suppressor, it hardens. An ultrasonic cleaner or home brew solvent will
get the carbon out of the suppressor but it will not remove the lead.
The ONLY way to remove lead is to disassemble the suppressor and either
wire brush or bead blast it off the baffles. Our STRATUS suppressor,
like all of our .22 LR suppressors, can be completely disassembled by
the user to include the removal of both endcaps and all the internal
baffles, and then cleaned and reassembled. If you don't believe that
.22LR ANYTHING can be "sealed and self cleaning", then the ability to
disassemble and clean your suppressor is a feature that will keep your
suppressor operating at peak performance for many years to come without
costly returns to the manufacturer for service.
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4. BLACK HARD ANODIZED FINISH
Our TAC65 suppressor is as durable as it is beautiful. The suppressor tube and both endcaps are matte black Type 3 hard anodized. Anodizing is not a paint or a spray on finish, its a molecular change in the material that forms crystals (like diamonds) on the outside of the material. Its the same finish that space and defense contractors and the military require on their parts. The 1/2 x 28 threads that mount the suppressor are also hard anodized.
We are frequently asked about steel or titanium inserts for suppressor mounting and don't think it is necessary or useful. In the event the suppressor is not unscrewed from the host firearm for a long time after a lot of shooting, the suppressor can be difficult to unscrew from the firearm. If you have a steel barrel and either steel or titanium for the suppressor mounting and either the barrel or the suppressor thread is going to be damaged to get the suppressor off, we would prefer to see the suppressor cap stripped rather than the threads on the firearm. Its much easier, and less expensive, to unscrew and replace the endcap than to have to get the barrel threaded again. Its been our practical experience that hard anodized endcaps are far more durable than needed thus making steel inserts costly and unnecessary. However, if you want or need a steel insert, don't settle just for an insert, our QUEST SUPPRESSOR is completley manufactured out of stainless steel at a price that most other manufacturer's charge for their aluminum suppressor.
5. PROFESSIONALLY LASER ENGRAVED
To compliment the matte black Type 3 hard black anodized finish, each suppressor is professionally laser engraved in compliance with BATFE marking requirements, indicating its serial number, model, manufacturer and caliber. Sure laser engraving costs a few dollars more than traditional rotary engraving, but anything less looks like it costs a lot less. The STRATUS suppressor delivers premium performance and appearance at a value cost.
6. CAD DESIGNED and CNC MANUFACTURED
Every piece of a STRATUS suppressor is CAD designed and CNC manufactured
in our modern CNC machine shop out of American certified T6 aircraft crade aluminum. The backbone of any suppressor is the baffle stack and each
baffle is individually lathe machined. There are no stamped parts,
hardware store washers, screens, wipes, grease or any other parts that
will wear out or have to be repetitively replaced. Our commitment to
manufacturing excellence assures you consistent parts interchangeability
and the finest workmanship available.
7. MULTIPLE PLATFORM VERSITILITY
One of the major advantages of a screw on "muzzle can" suppressor
compared to an integrally suppressed firearm is that it can be used on
multiple firearms to best suit the requirement. The Banshee suppressor
is designed for either handgun or rifle use and works well on
traditional mounting platforms.
One other advantage of a screw on suppressor is that it can be
disassembled from either end by removing BOTH endcaps to drive the
baffles out either end. By comparison, the suppressor on an integrally
suppressed firearm (assuming the manufacturer even designed it with the
capability of removing the front endcap) quickly becomes soldered
together with lead from firing making it difficult, and often impossible
to pull the baffles out the front of the assembly.
8. IF OUR NAME IS ON IT, WE MAKE IT AND SERVICE IT
Many other "manufacturers" put their name on a product that they don't build. EVERY STRATUS suppressor that we sell, we make every piece of it and are intimately familiar with its function, assembly and operation. We operate a fulltime firearm CNC manufacturing machine shop with live customer service, not answering machines. We have the parts, the staff and the experience in-house to service and troubleshoot our products, resulting in fast turnarounds and hassle free service for you, our valued customer. You should expect nothing less from any other suppressor manufacturer.
9. MYTH: "IT HAS TO BE EXPENSIVE TO WORK WELL"
The truth is that suppressors don't have all that much material in them
and volume production with our modern CNC lathes make manufacturing
costs per unit very reasonable. We base our profit margins on volume,
which means we can sell our suppressors at prices that are considerably
lower than many other manufacturers' prices that produce small quantity
runs or even individual "handmade pieces". Our modern CNC machines
ensure the highest workmanship and consistent quality part after part.
Tactical Innovations offers multiple .22LR suppressors in different construction materials, sizes and prices to suit virtually any use, requirement, budget or personal perference. In addition, all of our .22LR suppressors can be disassembled for cleaning and service by the user and are supported by our commitment to customer service.
TAC65 - "The Work horse"
The TAC65 is our most popular suppressor. It has often been described as the perfect intersection between performance, cost, and size. Its a "workhorse" that continues to deliver year after year for a price that can't be beat. For most shooters that want a solid can at a price that won't break the bank, the TAC65 is the perfect companion for your rifle or pistol every time you go camping, hiking, hunting, plinking or fishing.
STRATUS - Minimum Size & Weight
The .22LR STRATUS suppressor, as its name describes, at 2.4 ounces is so light that many customers have to look inside it to make sure it's not an empty tube! Every possible machine work element and performance feature is included in the STRATUS suppressor, to include lightening where ever possible, vortex exit cap, constant pressure two stage "K" baffle system, and minimum size and length, all in a package that is approximately 3/4" shorter and almost 1/10 of an inch smaller in diameter than our TAC65. For customers that want the smallest, lightest, quietest possible suppressor, the STRATUS is it. We've had customers ask what we would build for a lightweight .22LR suppressor if price was no option... even at multiple times the price, and there are no additonal features that we'd be able to add or incorporate regardless of the price. Given its premium features, performance, size and weight, and all at a production price, our STRATUS suppressor is an easy choice!
QUEST - Compact Stainless for Semi or Full Auto
The only way to improve on the STRATUS suppressor was to make it out of stainless steel. The QUEST suppressor is the same geometry, size, premium features and performance as the Stratus, but instead of an ultra lightweight aluminum package, the QUEST's stainless steel construction makes it robust enough for responsible full auto fire, while still being light enough for traditional handgun and rifle use. For customers that want a multipurpose can, or that shoot A LOT and want a suppressor that can handle years of shooting and cleaning, the QUEST is the suppresor you'll want.
DIAMOND - Hard Full Auto Fire
Very few customers will need our DIAMOND suppressor, but for those that do, there is NOTHING else like it! Too many customers were using our TAC16 .223 suppressor for hard full auto .22LR fire, and although it works, it's too big and heavy for a .22LR application. The DIAMOND suppressor is made for HARD .22LR FULL AUTO FIRE, such as from our AM15 or an AM180. Multiple 275 round drums back to back is what the DIAMOND is made for. Its stainless steel construction, incorporating both blast baffles and "K" baffles, along with its custom radially finned exterior, makes it a premium suppressor that delivers drum after drum. Although its weight makes it marginally uncomfortable for traditional .22LR handguns and rifles, for rimfire full auto blasting, the DIAMOND suppressor has no equal for strength, performance and size.
The Stratus was my first suppressor, I have been very pleased with its performance it now has close to 2000 rounds through it and works great. I have found that coating the baffles with militec and a heat gun a couple of times makes cleaning the suppressor much easier now I use a nylon brush to clean off the baffles instead of having to use a steel brush. I clean it about every 600 to 800 rounds or so. Great can
I just got my new Stratus can and the difference is immediately noticeable. It is light and yet sturdy and when paired with the Tac thread adaptor and threaded barrel, it significantly suppresses the sound of both my Walther P22 and Ruger 10/22. You definitely can't beat the cost and the construction is top notch. I know these guys make these cans in-house and their work is excellent. I highly recommend picking one up if your local laws allow, especially at this price.
This thing is so light I thought it was empty! and its so quiet we shoot it in the back yard and no one cares. The little wood box was a nice unexpected extra. If you want a nice suppressor, this is the one to get.
All Tactical Innovations .22LR suppressors have threaded endcaps to allow the user to disassemble them for cleaning and service. Many manufacturers will claim to have "self cleaning" suppressors or that swishing a solvent in the suppressor will sufficiently clean your suppressor. We all know how dirty .22's are, and suppressors wind up with a lot of that dirt in them as well as an accumulated lead build up each time you fire a round through it. Ultrasonic cleaners will remove the carbon and dirt but WILL NOT remove the lead build up.
There are two different schools of thought on the suppressor cleaning issue. Most users are willing to clean their suppressor as necessary to ensure its long life with no problems while other users never disassemble their unit and attempt to clean it as much as possible by soaking or ultrasonic, without ever disassembling it. If you choose to not disassemble your suppressor, eventually it will get leaded up to the point that it will no longer be functional and disassembly will be difficult to impossible. While its true that you can get away without cleaning a suppressor for a long time (possibly 10's of 1000's of rounds), eventually the lead will get so thick that the bullet will literally have to squeeze through the now undersize hole in the baffle. If you're the kind of shooter that we are, and you want to shoot your suppressor A LOT, we want you to be as happy with your suppressor years down the road as you are with it when you get it. The ability to disassemble the suppressor for cleaning or service without the need to return the suppressor to the manufacturer to have it cut open as required by other manufacturers, is a significant advantage of the Tactical Innovations series of suppressors compared to other manufacturers' offerings.
Since .22LR ammo is not jacketed (the copper coated washed bullets are not the same as a jacketed bullet), you will experience lead buildup in addition to carbon and dirt. Each time you shoot any .22LR ammo, a mist of lead leaves the barrel and when it reaches the colder suppressor, it will instantly harden on the suppressor surface and continually build up. The frequency of cleaning will depend on the ammunition that you shoot, since some are dirtier than others. We suggest that you clean your suppressor the first time after a couple 100 rounds so you'll understand the process before it gets too hard to take it apart. There is no need to clean it any more often than you have to based on your difficulty to disassemble it. Generally 2500 to 3500 rounds has been the preferred cleaning frequency that customers have reported but many customers wait for 5000+ rounds. More frequent cleaning intervals, such as after each use, are not necessary and serve no benefit to the suppressor.
Cleaning without disassembly can easily be accomplished with either an ultrasonic cleaner or simply soak it by immersion in a parts washer. DO NOT USE any cleaner that has ammonia in it since it will disolve your suppressor and baffles causing permanent damage. DO NOT use gasoline or kerosene, since you stand the risk of exploding the suppressor when you next fire it. Drain it completely, wash it out well with water, shake out any excess water, fire a round or 2 to get the remaining water out and then lightly mist spray with non-flamable oil. You'll be able to remove the dirt and carbon using this method but you will not be able to remove the lead.
ENSURE YOUR FIREARM IS NOT LOADED
After ensuring that your firearm is not loaded, remove the suppressor from the firearm. You CANNOT take it apart while it's still attached to the firearm.
SOAK THE SUPPRESSOR
The can should be soaked prior to disassembly to aid in disassembly. We recommend a gallon of WD40 in a large plastic jar and leave it in to soak overnight. Spraying some oil into the can will be of minimal to no benefit. Soak it. After soaking, remove from the oil, drain, wash the exterior to remove any oil, dry the exterior.
REMOVE ONE ENDCAP
You will need MINIMALLY one Assembly & Disassembly Tool to unscrew the caps. We recommend two. Put one tool into a vice and lock it in. Stand the suppressor up on the tool. Place the second tool on the top of the suppressor. Use a 1" wrench to turn the top tool while at the same time push the suppressor down on the bottom tool. Loosen whichever cap unscrews first only about 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. Do not completely unscrew the cap. Just loosen it at this point.
REMOVE SECOND ENDCAP
Whichever cap loosened first, align that cap with the driver tool that is locked in the vice. Put the still tight cap up. Align the second driver tool into the still tight top cap. Use either a rubber strap wrench or someone with really strong hands to turn the suppressor tube clockwise while you unscrew the top cap. Completely remove the top cap, then either by hand or with the strap wrench, completely remove the already loosened bottom cap.
REMOVE BAFFLES FROM TUBE
The baffles will be difficult to remove from the tube since the lead has soldered them together and into the tube. You will be able to see the lead build up especially on the first baffle. There will be a ring of lead around each baffle which has to be broken in order to drive the baffles from the tube. Use a 3/4" diameter wooden dowel cut 7 inches long to tap / hammer the baffles out. The easiest and safest way to accomplish this is to have your buddy hold the tube in the air while you use the dowel and a plastic face lead deadblow hammer to tap the baffles out, alternating from one end to the next. Once you get the first one moving, the rest will move as well since the lead ring has been broken.
CLEAN THE TUBE ID & INSIDES OF BOTH CAPS
Use a soft brush to clean the inside of the tube so that you can slide the baffles back in for reassembly. Do not use any hard brushes that will damage the finish inside of the suppressor tube. Similarly, do not use any solvents or cleaners with ammonia or similar that will disolve aluminim. Scrub the insides of the caps. Do not scrub the threads. After a lot of use, it may become necessary to clean the 1/2x28 thread with a class 2B tap. A tap can be purchased on line from MSCDIRECT. Use caution when chasing the threads with a tap since the tap is capable of incorrectly cutting new threads in the cap. The tap should by used by hand only to clean the existing threads if necessary.
CLEAN THE BAFFLES
The baffles will never be shiny aluminum and they don't need to be. Use a brush to clean the baffles to remove any large deposits, ensuring that the ports and vents are not in any way blocked. If you have access to a blast cabinet, you can lightly blast the baffles which provides a quick very thorough cleaning. However, since they are aluminum, use caution not to damage the baffles.
A small amount of "Never Seize" or "No Seize" (which is used on automobile exhaust manifold bolts and is available at any auto parts store) on the endcap OD threads, will facilitate future disassembly. To assemble, screw the rear cap (1/2x28 hole in it) on to the tube first, paying attention to orient the lettering on the tube correctly. Use the driver tool that is still in the vice to hand tighten the rear cap as tightly as you can get it by hand. DO NOT use the strap wrench or any other tools. Insert the baffles from the front of the can with the flat surface first and the cone second (the bullet goes through the flat part of the baffle first), spiraling the baffles every 90 degrees as you put them in. The baffle with the drilled hole in its face should be the fourth baffle to go into the tube. Screw on the front cap and use the same driver in the vice to HAND torque it. You should have tight baffle compression between the caps and there should be between 0.000 and 0.004 gap between the tube and the front cap (about the thickness of a piece of paper). If there is more than that, the baffles are not clean and the dirt is making them longer and / or you need to HAND torque the front cap a little more. Visually verify that the bullet path through the suppressor is unobstructed. Shoot 3-5 rounds to compress the baffle stack and then retorque the cap.
If you need any replacement parts for your suppressor, the suppressor will need to be returned. We will not ship individual parts even if you send us your damaged parts.
DON'T DAMAGE THE SUPPRESSOR
If you follow these disassembly steps, you'll notice that no propane torches, vice grips, pipe wrenches etc are specified in the disassembly SOP. If you use alternate holding and turning methods, please MAKE SURE that you don't damage the suppressor. The potential for most damage should be obvious before it happens. You should be able to disassemble and reassemble your suppressor for a lifetime of use without damaging the unit.
I CAN'T GET IT APART / I DON'T WANT TO FOOL WITH IT
If you give up and can't get it apart, or you just don't want to fool with it, BEFORE you damage the suppressor, we can usually get any suppressor apart at our facility. Disassembly and cleaning is based on our shop rate of $65 / hour with a one hour minimum. Depending on how badly your suppressor is leaded together, we can usually get it disassembled and back together in approx an hour of shop time as well as whatever parts need to be replaced. Contact us for a work order form before shipping your suppressor back to us.
Email or call if any questions, we're glad to help!
MY CAP IS STUCK ON MY RIFLE/PISTOL. WHAT SHOULD I DO?
What's happened is one of two things, or probably a combination of the
two. If the barrel is on the tight side for the threads and the cap is
also on the tight side, both will be in spec but it could be a little
tighter than would be optimal. At the same time, when you shoot it,
pressure in the suppressor will force lead and carbon into the the
threads which will also make it harder to unscrew. A little No-Seize or
similar thread paste (common for automotive applications such as exhaust
manifold bolts) will fill in the threads and not allow lead and carbon
to get into the threads.
The suppressor is designed for USA standard 1/2-28 threads with
.400 length of threads. You do not want to use a barrel that has more
than .400 length of thread since then the threads will protrude into the
suppressor beyond the threaded cap and the threads will quickly become
covered with lead and carbon. In order to unscrew the suppressor cap
from the barrel, you will have to force the exposed crusty threads
through the cap with the cap having to literally cut the lead and carbon
off the threads in order for it to unscrew. This is a common
occurrence with longer threads such as on an AR15 with a .22 kit and
requires a spacer to keep the threads in the cap and not exposed in the
The good news is that it does happen occasionally but shouldn't
be too hard to remedy. First thing would be to oil the threads between
the cap and the barrel and then screw the tube back on tightly and see
if that will allow the cap to unscrew. If that does not work, you
should be able to unscrew the tube and then wrap a rag around the cap
and unscrew it with you hand. If its on tighter than that, then either
there is a thread issue or its been on the gun for a long time and has
actually gotten soldered to the barrel from lead and carbon from
shooting. Next thing to try would be to put a rubber strap wrench on
the threads of the cap and then unscrew it. The only alternative if
that does not work would be to use vice grips or similar and damage the
threads on the cap to get it to unscrew and then we would have to
replace the cap and reassemble the suppressor here per ATF regulations.
HOW TO BUY A SUPPRESSOR
Using the DEALER tab for your state, check for a Class 3 dealer local to you that might have the suppressor you want in stock or that will assist you with the transfer for a pre-agreed upon fee. ANY class 3 dealer in your state can receive and transfer you a suppressor. We CANNOT sell you a suppressor directly. You must go through an in-state Class 3 dealer.
Call your local CLEO (sheriff, chief etc) and ask him what his procedure is for signing Form 4 federal applications for NFA transfer and ownership. Make sure that he will sign BEFORE you buy the firearm or suppressor. If he won't sign, you can't have it and he has not legal obligation to sign. Your possession of a state issued concealed carry permit does not make any difference. Often your local in-state dealer can offer advise on which counties and sheriffs will sign.
Have your in state Class 3 dealer send us a copy of his license with original ink signature and a copy of his SOT receipt if we don't already have it on file. Your in-state Class 3 dealer will help you with the paperwork required to complete the transfer.
SUPPRESSOR PURCHASING REQUIREMENTS
Most people are not aware that an average citizen can own a machine gun or a suppressor (silencer) by completing the appropriate paperwork and paying the corresponding fees. Here is a summary of the basic requirements for NFA ownership (suppressors or machine guns):
You have to live in a state that allows its citizens to own the type of firearm that you want to purchase. For instance, some states do not allow any NFA firearms, others allow machine guns but not suppressors while most others allow all NFA. Your local in-state Class 3 dealer will be able to tell you if you can legally own a suppressor in your state. Obviously if you are in anti-gun states such as CA, you can NOT own a suppressor.
You have to meet the federal requirements of the 4473 "Yellow Form", such as 21 or older, clean criminal background, no dishonorable discharge, US citizen, etc. Basically if you can legally purchase a handgun, you can legally purchase an NFA (Class 3) firearm.
There is no license required to own an NFA (Class 3) firearm. There is a one time tax that must be paid to ATF when you apply to have the registration transferred to your name. There is no ongoing yearly fees charged by the ATF. For machine guns, suppressors, short barrel shotguns, short barrel rifles and destructive devices, there is a one time $200 tax in addition to the purchase price of the firearm. For an AOW (Any Other Weapon) firearm, there is a $5 transfer tax. Even if you purchase 10 machine guns and 10 suppressors, EACH one would have a $200 tax. ATF will issue a tax stamp for $200 upon your approval and that tax stamp along with the form that it is affixed to is your receipt and proof of legal ownership.
The sheriff or chief of police or state police, whichever is YOUR Chief Law Enforcement Officer must be willing to sign your Form 4 (Application for Tax Paid Transfer and Registration of an NFA Firearm) attesting that he does not know of any reason that you should not have the NFA firearm. Whether you have a concealed carry permit, have a perfectly clean criminal background, voted for him or whatever, it is at the discretion of the CLEO (Chief Law Enforcement Officer) whether or not he will sign. He has no legal obligation to sign and if he will not sign, ATF will not process your application for Tax Paid Transfer and Registration of an NFA Firearm, and you will not get the firearm. If you own a corporation, you can transfer the NFA firearm to the corporation and no CLEO signature is necessary.
You have to be fingerprinted by the CLEO and the print cards are submitted to ATF along with your $200 tax and your completed Form 4 (Application for Tax Paid Transfer and Registration of an NFA Firearm).
You have to have the serial number before any paperwork can be printed or processed to begin the transfer to you which means that you have to pay for your firearm in order to start paperwork unless other arrangements are made between you and your instate dealer.
It takes about 90 days for ATF to approve the transfer of your NFA firearm to you. During that time, your local dealer who provided you with the Form 4 application, will maintain possession and ownership. After ATF approves the transfer and returns the approved Form 4 to your local dealer, then you can take possession of the suppressor.
Some states (such as LA, MD etc) have additional state transfer and licensing requirements. Some states will only allow its citizens to purchase C & R (Curio and Relic) firearms which are designated by ATF to be C & R status. Generally only original (not USA made remanufactured firearms such as MACs) firearms qualify as C & R and as such they command a premium price.
TOTAL COST FOR NFA PURCHASE
Everyone wants to know what is the TOTAL Bottom line cost for buying an NFA firearm. Here is our best attempt to give you a total cost. Remember that it will vary by state and local requirements and this list is intended to serve as an estimate, not as an all inclusive list encumpassing every possibility in every situation. Therefore we can not guarantee that your buying experience will work out financially exactly the same.
Cost of the firearm and any accessories
Shipping and insurance from us to your local in-state dealer if you don't buy it from an in-state stocking dealer.
$200 one time transfer tax for EACH NFA item EVERY TIME YOU BUY ANOTHER ONE. There is no annual fee.
Local Class 3 dealer charge, generally $50 - $100 but actual fee is between you and the dealer you workout. Different local in-state dealers charge different fees and also offer varying degrees of service. It's between you and your dealer. Stocking Dealers generally charge no fee since they are buying from us at wholesale and selling to you at MSRP.
Local CLEO fee for background check and or finger prints. Some charge, some don't.
NFA TRANSFERS FOR IDAHO RESIDENTS
Given that you can meet the purchasing requirements outlined above, we will receive NFA firearms from out of state dealers and process Form 4 transfers to qualified ID residents for $100 per NFA firearm.
Larger firearms requiring more storage space, such as most beltfeds and Destructive Devices, will be subject to additional storage charges.
We are not selling you a gun, we are providing a transfer service. Sales tax, if due, is your responsibility.
A transfer is a transfer. We will not negotiate with your out of state dealer. We will not call him to ask questions. We will not get involved in any disputes or legal proceedings between you and your dealer. We will not process shipping damage claims. We will not fill out his paperwork for the transfer from the out of state dealer to us. For the $100 transfer fee, we will mail a license to the out of state dealer. We will receive your firearm and log it into our inventory. It must arrive shipping prepaid. We will not pay for any COD shipments, regardless of the amount. We will print and mail you paperwork and will store your firearm until ATF returns your approved transfer, at which time we will contact you to arrange a time for the transfer. You should inspect your firearm(s) before they are transferred to us. If a firearm arrives and you decide not to do the Form 4 transfer to yourself and want the gun transferred to another out of state dealer, the same $100 fee still applies for our time, accounting, storage and paperwork.
Firearms not received by you within 3 years from the date of our receipt FOR ANY REASON will be deemed abandoned property and you relinquish any title or claim to the firearm. In other words, we will not store it forever.
Your firearm will not be fired, displayed or handled (other than to verify serial numbers etc) while in our possession.
While in our possession, your firearm will be boxed in identical condition as received. In other words, we will not clean it, shoot it etc while its here.
All of our .22LR suppressors are threaded 1/2x28 tpi. One of the advantages of having a threaded muzzle suppressor is that you can easily move it from one threaded gun to another thus maximizing the use of the suppressor. Some firearms, like the Walther P22 and the factory threaded SIG Mosquito are easily adapted for a suppressor by simply installing one of our thread adapters which require no gunsmithing or machine work. Other firearms, like a Ruger 10/22, you can simply swap the barrel for one of ours that are already professionally threaded, for not much more than a CNC barrel threading job would cost with shipping each way.
For other firearms, the barrel would need to be threaded correctly. The firm that threads the barrel should have previous experience in barrel threading. It is our recommendation that you don't have "a friend" experiment on your barrel for his first attempt using a 1926 flat belt lathe that he has to dust off to use. One the barrel is threaded incorrectly, it can not be "re-done". The barrel would have to be cut and threaded shorter which often is not possible since the new length would then be less than the 16.0" required for a rifle per ATF regulations. Improper threading could also result in damage to the suppressor, such as baffle and endcap strikes.
Before you thread (or have a barrel threaded), you should make your machinist aware of the following guidelines (in no particular order):
1. If possible, it should be CNC threaded and not done on a manual lathe since the CNC will not give you the wasted clearance groove at the shoulder.
2. If you have to do it manually, the clearance groove should be as minimal as possible and not .125. A clearance groove of .093 or LESS is preferable (since you only have .400 of thread, you don't want to waste 25% of it on a clearance groove).
3. The thread should be 1/2 x 28 tpi and it should be verified on certified go / no-go ring gauges.
4. You should have .400 length of thread from the shoulder, nothing longer.
5. The shoulder should be .600 OD and must be square and perpendicular.
6. The thread must be concentric to the ID bore. The barrel should be turned on centers since the bore is never concentric with the OD of the barrel.
7. A thread protector should be installed to make sure that the threads are not damaged when not in use.
8. If possible, its advantageous for the firm doing the threading to have the endcap so that they can verify that the fit between the barrel and the cap are a perfect match.
9. The barrel material should be steel. Barrels that are carbon fiber or other plastics do not hold up well for threading.
10. Multiple adapters will increase the angular error and increase the probability of a baffle strike.
11. You will NOT be able to determine if the barrel is threaded correctly by dropping a cleaning rod in it, looking down it, etc. If your accuracy is way off, most likely the bullet it rubbing the endcap on the way out of the suppressor due to an alignment issue.
12. We do not thread barrels (other than CZ 75 Kadet handgun barrels). Please do not send us your gun or your barrel. We will ship it back at your expense without threading it. For threading, any machine shop or local gunsmith, as well as a variety of firms that advertise on the internet, should be able to provide you with a professional threading job at a reasonable price.
Email if you have any questions that we've missed.