PIKE ARMS® RED ELITE22TD™ TAKEDOWN
"80 PERCENT" RECEIVER BLANK WITH INTEGRAL PICATINNY RAIL
ATF APPROVED - NO FFL REQUIRED
Now you can easily complete a 10/22® TAKEDOWN style compatible receiver to build your own custom rifle or pistol using the Pike Arms® ATF approved ELITE22TD™ PICATINNY RAIL 80% receiver blank. We've already done the heavy machine work to get you close without yet completing it enough for ATF to consider this receiver blank to be a restricted receiver. Although this 80% receiver blank is not federally classified as a firearm per ATF's evaluation and determination letter, you should also verify that completion of the receiver is done in compliance with all state and local regulations prior to completing the receiver blank into a functioning receiver. This 80% blank is EXACTLY the same as our completed ELITE22TD™ PICATINNY RAIL Takedown Receivers but does not have the final machining done (which are all just holes) in order for it to NOT BE classified and restricted as a finished receiver so it can ship directly to you.
We have all of the profile machining done as well as the bolt pocket and the mag well. All you have to do to compete the receiver is:
1. Drill (or machine) the following few holes:
2. Install the takedown receiver hardware bushing assembly (#08626 not included - available separtately) into the barrel hole.
Hole placement to complete the ELITE22TD PICATINNY RAIL 80% blank into a functioning receiver can easily be
determined by using the Machinist Drawing on the tab labeled "Machinist Drawing" above or by using our PIKE ARMS® ELITE22TD™ RECEIVER HOLE
LOCATING DRILLING FIXTURE (Part #09225 available separately) which
provides exact hole placement as a template. Also available is a PIKE ARMS® 80% RECEIVER TOOLING
PACKAGE (Part #04486) that includes all the correct size drills to
complete the receiver. (See "Related Products" section below)
This Pike Arms® ELITE22TD™ PICATINNY RAIL 80% Receiver Blank is a stripped receiver and does not ship with any additional hardware or parts which will be necessary to complete the receiver into a functional firearm. In order to complete the receiver into a takedown model that is compatible with a Ruger® Takedown rifle, you will need the following receiver hardware bushing assembly which can be purchased in one package as part #08626, or purchased individually as:
1. Part #08281 – PIKE ARMS® Elite22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BUSHING
2. Part #08556 – PIKE ARMS® Elite22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER LOCKING BLOCK
3. Part #08610 – PIKE ARMS® Elite22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BARREL BUSHING SPACER
4. Part #08611 – PIKE ARMS® Elite22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BARREL
BUSHING SPACER ROLL PIN
5. Part #08282 – PIKE ARMS® Elite22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BARREL ADJUSTMENT RING
6. Part #08620 - PIKE ARMS® ELITE22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BARREL ADJUSTMENT RING DETENT
7. Part #08621 – PIKE ARMS® ELITE22TD™ TAKEDOWN STYLE RECEIVER BARREL ADJUSTMENT RING DETENT SPRING
8. Part #00911 (Stainless) or # 00910 (Blue) PIKE ARMS® V-BLOCK CAP SCREWS
You should note prior to completing your Pike Arms® Elite22TD™ PICATINNY RAIL 80% TAKEDOWN Receiver Blank, that the drilled "barrel" hole when using a Ruger® factory receiver
bushing will minimally be a different diameter than the barrel bushing
hole when using the recommended Pike Arms® barrel bushing (Part #08281)
in order to permit the barrel bushing hole in the receiver to be drilled
with a readily available and reasonably priced common size drill bit as
supplied in our Tooling Package (Part #04486). When using a Ruger®
factory receiver barrel bushing from a Ruger® Takedown rifle, you will
have to source the correct size drill bit or interpolate the diameter on
a CNC mill. We strongly suggest and recommend using the Pike Arms®
receiver barrel bushing which will allow the 80% receiver blank to
easily be completed and assembled while still maintaining 100% barrel
interchangability and compatibility with Ruger® factory rifles.
After your receiver has been completed by drilling the remaining holes and by pressing the barrel bushing assembly into the now drilled hole, you can easily complete a 10/22® style compatible rifle or pistol that can then be assembled with Pike Arms® billet machined parts for a high quality custom rifle or pistol. Please note that other manufacturer's parts will often have varying tolerances over which we of course would have no control. Although we guarantee our Elite22® receivers to function with either Pike Arms® parts or Ruger® factory parts, assembly with other third party manufacturer's parts would be your responsibility for compatibility and function.
In order to then assemble your receiver into a complete rifle or pistol you will need the following parts:
3. Bolt Buffer
9. Receiver / Stock Takedown Screw (2 Required For Takedown - One for stock and one for barrel assembly)
Assembly is as easy as re-assembling a rifle that has been stripped to its major assemblies for cleaning. All of the more difficult parts when purchased from us are already pre-assembled for you (such as the trigger assembly and the bolt) and are simple drop in parts. For tools, you will need a pack of allen wrenches and in less than an hour, and you can easily complete and assemble your own custom rifle.
Frequently Asked Questions For
PIKE ARMS® RED
80% RECEIVER WITH PICATINNY RAIL
ATF APPROVED - NO FFL REQUIRED
REPLACEMENT 10/22® RECEIVER
Thank you for your purchase of a Tactical Innovations’ ELITE22™ receiver. The receiver is precision CNC machined from aircraft 6061 grade aluminum to provide years of reliability and pleasure. Please review these assembly instructions and tips before attempting to assemble your receiver.
The receiver can be assembled with Ruger® factory parts or a custom rifle can be assembled using our billet machined replacement parts. Parts manufactured by third party companies may also work but the use of parts from multiple different manufactures can often be problematic and require additional fitting and troubleshooting as a result of the tolerances for each part from each manufacturer.
The barrel is installed using a V-Block and cap screws identically to the factory assembly. The shank on the barrel, regardless of the manufacturer, will be larger than the hole in the receiver and will not slip into the receiver without fitting. The receiver barrel hole is precisely machined and should not be “fitted” or modified during the assembly process; only the barrel shank should be fitted to the receiver. It is critical that the barrel shank have a light press fit into the receiver. If the barrel shank is loose in the receiver hole, then the barrel will droop when the V-block is tightened and it will be impossible to align a scope with the point of impact since the barrel will be slightly pointing down and will not be parallel with the bore.
To fit the barrel to the receiver, you will need to only remove a very small amount of material from the barrel shank (the part of the barrel that goes into the receiver hole). Do not use a dremel or similar power tool to grind on the receiver hole or the barrel shank. Use sandpaper or a flat file on the barrel shank only. One method is to roll the barrel across your lap while you use the file or sandpaper in order to ensure that you are removing the same amount of material from all sides of the barrel shank to maintain its concentricity. When fitted to the proper size, and with the barrel shank lightly oiled, you should be able to press the barrel shank into the receiver hole by hand without using a mallet or similar to hammer the barrel into the receiver. It should be tight but you should still be able remove it if necessary and be able to rotate the barrel in order to align the extractor slot with the extractor on the bolt.
With the barrel now fitted into the receiver hole, place the bolt in the receiver WITHOUT the recoil spring and with the bolt retracted for clearance, rotate the barrel so that the extractor in the bolt lines up with the extractor slot in the barrel. Use caution not to pull the extractor out of the bolt when rotating the barrel for alignment. Stand the receiver on the opposite end from the barrel and press down on the barrel into the receiver. Although a traditional V-block is often adequate, an ADJUSTABLE V-BLOCK (Part #00204) is recommended so that you can set the barrel to any angle relative to the bore. Install the V-Block and the cap screws hand tight. Torque the cap screws while pushing down on the barrel and verify that the barrel is not pulling toward the V-block as you tighten the V-Block. If the barrel is correctly fitted to the receiver hole, the barrel will not droop (ie pull toward the V-block). If it does, you will have to use an adjustable V-Block to prevent the barrel from drooping as the V-Block is tightened. Prior to the V-Block being torqued, verify that the extractor in the bolt aligns perfectly with the extractor slot in the barrel. Barrel installation is complete.
The width of the bolt is critical for safe and reliable operation. Ruger® factory bolts that have been “polished” will often then be too thin from the polishing process removing metal and a slam fire condition is possible. Do not use a Ruger® factory bolt that has been “polished” or otherwise modified in any way. When assembling your rifle, ensure that the bolt that you use is wide enough to not allow the bolt to hit the rim and fire the round if the bolt is pushed all the way to either side of the receiver. The entire rim of the round should always be in the corresponding pocket of the bolt regardless of the left or right position of the bolt in the receiver.
Chambering: In order for the rifle to successfully chamber the new round each time, the bolt face has to be smooth and have the correct geometry. Generally, a machined bolt will have a more uniform finish and geometry than a Ruger® factory cast bolt although cast bolts will work most of the time. The recoil spring has to have sufficient force to be able to drive the weight of the bolt forward and strip a round from the magazine. The magazine feedlips have to be designed to ensure that the feed angle will correctly present the round to the chamber. Plastic magazines often will wear out and the feed angle will change. Similarly, different brands of high capacity magazines will have different feed angle geometry resulting in one brand working well and another not working at all. In addition, the actual bullet shape of different brands of ammunition in high capacity magazines will change the feed angle relative to other brands of ammunition that have a different bullet profile. For testing, always use a Ruger® 10 round rotary magazine since the rounds are individually nested and are not stacked on top of each other.
The 10/22® rifle operates based on the blowback of the bolt by the brass when fired. In order for the rifle to function correctly, the recoil of the fired brass has to be greater than the combined resistance of (1) the weight of the bolt, (2) the force of the recoil spring (3) cocking the hammer and (4) the drag of the bolt on the receiver especially whennew, dirty or not oiled. Different brands of ammunition, especially bulk ammunition, will have lighter recoil than ammunition such as CCI® MiniMags®. Similarly, ammunition can have different blowback force from one round to the next due to powder variations in the ammunition. As a result, if the fired round does not blow the bolt all the way rearward each time, you will experience failures to feed as well as failures to eject.
Failure to Feed: When the bolt does not blow back far enough, it will not get behind the next round in the mag in order to strip and push it into the barrel. When this occurs, you will see the bolt stopped and usually dug into the lead bullet of the next round in the magazine. A similar condition, although more difficult to diagnose, occurs when the bolt does not blow back far enough each time and just barely blows back to minimally get behind the next round in the magazine, at which point you will not have the full travel and force of the bolt coming forward to strip the round out of the mag and run it into the chamber. To remedy this issue, you will have to shoot hotter ammo or reduce the countering recoil force as noted above by modifying the recoil spring.
Many third party barrel manufacturers will often use tighter chambers in an effort to increase accuracy. However, the tighter chamber (and often with no feedramp) combined with sharper edges on the chamber face, will make successfully feeding ammo from the magazine to the chamber much more difficult. To successfully feed ammunition into a tighter chamber with no feedramp and sharper edges, you may have to lightly polish the chamber end of the barrel and create a more accessible chamber for the round to be able to feed.
Stovepipe Failure: A stovepipe failure or similar with fired brass ending up jammed in the receiver is usually a function of the extractor on the bolt not pulling the fired brass out of the chamber as the bolt is recoiling to the rear of the receiver. Ideally, the brass would exit the barrel and stay on the face of the bolt without an extractor but the extractor makes sure that the brass leaves the barrel and stays on the bolt while the bolt recoils until the brass hits the ejector with enough force to be thrown out of the gun. If the extractor does not grab the brass out of the chamber or does not hold the brass on the face of the bolt, you should replace the extractor. We offer a Sharp Claw Extractor (Part # 00422 that is EDM cut and not stamped) that will cut into the brass to pull it from the receiver. Most extraction issues are due to the failure of the extractor, which is an easy and inexpensive part to replace.
A stovepipe stoppage can also occur when the bolt does not blow back far enough / hard enough for the brass to strike the ejector with enough force to kick it out of the receiver, and instead it simply falls off the bolt into the receiver. To remedy this issue, you will have to either shoot hotter ammunition or reduce the recoil resistance as noted above, with the easiest option being to clip one or two coils off the recoil spring while continuing to test after clipping each coil.
Reliable function and operation requires that all parts successfully work together as intended. Many issues can be determined and resolved by substituting known non-issue Ruger® factory parts out of the assembly one at a time until the problematic part(s) are identified. Although the majority of rifle assemblies can be completed without any issues (especially when using either all Ruger® parts or all Tactical Innovations’ parts), you should seek competent professional gunsmithing assistance should you encounter a situation that exceeds your comfort or experience level. We are happy to perform a comprehensive measurement and quality check on any of our receivers but do not offer assembly or trouble shooting gunsmithing services.