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TAC16 CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS

It should not be necessary to disassemble your TAC16 suppressor under normal use conditions. However, it is designed and manufactured to be able to be disassembled in the event you might need to replace an endcap or baffle caused by a bullet strike or to allow us to rebuild the suppressor when the blast baffles are sufficiently worn to require service. We do not recommend disassembling it for cleaning after each use. Since .223 uses a jacketed bullet, you will get carbon and dirt buildup in the can, but not lead like you would get with a .22LR suppressor. Cleaning without disassembly can easily be accomplished with either an ultrasonic cleaner or simply soak it by immersion in a parts washer. DO NOT use gasoline or kerosene. You stand the risk of exploding the suppressor when you next fire it. Drain it completely, shaking out any excess parts washer cleaning fluid, fire a round or 2 to get the remaining cleaner out and then lightly mist spray with non-flamable oil if desired.

DISASSEMBLY STEPS:
Should you decide to disassemble the suppressor:

  1. ENSURE YOUR FIREARM IS NOT LOADED
    After ensuring that your firearm is not loaded, remove the suppressor from the firearm. You CANNOT take it apart while its still attached to the firearm.
  2. SOAK THE SUPPRESSOR
    The can should be soaked at least overnight to aid in disassembly. We recommend a gallon of WD40 in a large plastic jar and leave it in to soak overnight. Spraying some oil into the can will be of minimal to no benefit. Soak it. After soaking, remove from the oil, drain, wash the exterior to remove any oil, dry the exterior.
  3. REMOVE FRONT ENDCAP
    You will need our 12 point driver tool and a 1/4 breaker bar or ratchet. Get an assistant to hold the can flat on a table with a soft rag on it and push the ratchet to the table to loosen the front endcap. After the endcap is loose, unscrew it and dump the baffles and spacers out. Depending on carbon buildup, they may be difficult to remove.
  4. REMOVE BAFFLES FROM TUBE
    After the endcap is loose, unscrew it and dump the baffles and spacers out. Depending on carbon buildup, they may be difficult to remove.
  5. CLEAN THE TUBE ID & INSIDE OF ENDCAPS
    Use a soft brush to clean the inside of the tube so that you can slide the baffles back in for reassembly. Do not use any hard brushes that will damage the finish inside of the suppressor tube. After a lot of use, it may become necessary to clean the 1/2x28 thread with a class 2B tap. A tap can be purchased on line from MSCDIRECT. Use caution when chasing the threads with a tap since the tap is capable of incorrectly cutting new threads in the cap. The tap should by used by hand only to clean the existing threads if necessary.
  6. CLEAN THE BAFFLES
    The baffles and spacers can be scrubbed with Hoppes #9 or bead blasted if you have a cabinet available. The pieces do not have to be shiny and bright, as long as any heavy build up is removed.
  7. REASSEMBLY
    Assembly is the reverse of disassembly with the following notes. Do not interchange the thick baffles which appear identical but are different thicknesses. The bullet goes through the thickest "fat baffle" first and then the thickest of the machined fat baffles with the machined side always toward the gun. The thin baffles are interchangable. The bullet should pass through the mountain first, not the valley. After reassembling, torque the endcap as tightly as possible. Visually verify that the bullet path through the suppressor is unobstructed. Shoot 3-5 rounds to compress the baffle stack and then retorque the cap. You should have approx .003 to .005 gap (the thickness of a piece of paper) between the cap and the end of the tube upon reassembly. If there is more than that, the baffles are not clean and the dirt is making them longer and / or you need to torque the front cap a little more. Visually verify that the bullet path through the suppressor is unobstructed. Shoot 3-5 rounds to compress the baffle stack and then retorque the cap.

GENERAL NOTES:
  1. REPLACEMENT PARTS
    If you need any replacement parts for your suppressor, the suppressor will need to be returned. We will not ship individual parts even if you send us your damaged parts.
  2. DON'T DAMAGE THE SUPPRESSOR
    If you follow these disassembly steps, you'll notice that no propane torches, vice grips, pipe wrenches etc are specified in the disassembly SOP. If you use alternate holding and turning methods, please MAKE SURE that you don't damage the suppressor. The potential for most damage should be obvious before it happens. You should be able to disassemble and reassemble your suppressor for a lifetime of use without damaging the unit.
  3. I CAN'T GET IT APART / I DON'T WANT TO FOOL WITH IT
    If you give up and can't get it apart, or you just don't want to fool with it, BEFORE you damage the suppressor, we can usually get any suppressor apart at our facility. Disassembly and cleaning is based on our shop rate of $65 / hour with a one hour minimum. Depending on how badly your suppressor is leaded together, we can usually get it disassembled and back together in approx an hour of shop time as well as whatever parts need to be replaced. Contact us for a work order form before shipping your suppressor back to us.

    Email or call if any questions, we're glad to help!

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TACTICAL INNOVATIONS INC.
345 Sunrise Road
Bonners Ferry, ID 83805
208-267-1585 Pacific   Fax: 208-267-1597
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