ELITE22LC™ BILLET PRECISION MACHINED REPLACEMENT 10/22® RECEIVER
In response to customer demand for a high quality target grade precision machined replacement receiver for building a custom 10/22 rifle at an affordable price, serious target shooters, varmint shooters, as well as plinkers can enjoy the advantages of a machined receiver with a solid Picatinny mount that can be built into whatever level of precision is required. Our ELITE22LC replacement receiver is loaded with the features that easily separate it from a factory receiver while still being able to use factory parts to complete it.
| 2. CLEAN FROM THE CHAMBER TO THE MUZZLE
|Target shooters have always known that the correct way to clean a rifle is from the chamber and out the muzzle rather than pushing all the dirt from the barrel into the receiver and potentially damaging the barrel crown with the cleaning rod. Our receivers have a 1/4" hole in the rear of the receiver that allows you to put a cleaning rod in the rear of the receiver, then attach the brush and swab the barrel from the chamber to the muzzle without having to remove the barrel (and loose your zero each time). The cleaning access hole is cosmetically covered with a snap in and out plug that blends with the rear of the receiver when installed and that is completely hidden when the receiver is in the stock.
| 3. PICATINNY PRECISON MACHINED RAIL
|The ELITE22LC Receiver comes standard with a picatinny rail integrally machined into the receiver. For maximum strength and alignment, it is machined into the receiver as one piece. The integral Picatinny mount is standard rather than the less versatile weaver style rail. The rail is mil-spec to fit popular scopes and accessory optics.
* Rifles shown are for reference only and are NOT included with the stripped receiver. The stripped receiver does NOT include any required assembly parts such as the bolt, buffer or charging handle, all of which are available separately.
REPLACEMENT 10/22® RECEIVER
Thank you for your purchase of a Tactical Innovations’
ELITE22™ receiver. The receiver is precision CNC machined from
aircraft 6061 grade aluminum to provide years of reliability and pleasure. Please review these assembly instructions and
tips before attempting to assemble your receiver.
The receiver can be assembled with Ruger® factory parts or
a custom rifle can be assembled using our billet machined replacement
parts. Parts manufactured by third party
companies may also work but the use of parts from multiple different
manufactures can often be problematic and require additional fitting and troubleshooting
as a result of the tolerances for each part from each manufacturer.
The barrel is installed using a V-Block and cap screws
identically to the factory assembly. The
shank on the barrel, regardless of the manufacturer, will be larger than the
hole in the receiver and will not slip into the receiver without fitting. The
receiver barrel hole is precisely machined and should not be “fitted” or
modified during the assembly process; only the barrel shank should be fitted to
the receiver. It is critical that the
barrel shank have a light press fit into the receiver. If the barrel shank is loose in the receiver
hole, then the barrel will droop when the V-block is tightened and it will be
impossible to align a scope with the point of impact since the barrel will be
slightly pointing down and will not be parallel with the bore.
To fit the barrel to the receiver, you will need to only remove
a very small amount of material from the barrel shank (the part of the barrel
that goes into the receiver hole). Do
not use a dremel or similar power tool to grind on the receiver hole or the barrel
shank. Use sandpaper or a flat file on
the barrel shank only. One method is to
roll the barrel across your lap while you use the file or sandpaper in order to
ensure that you are removing the same amount of material from all sides of the
barrel shank to maintain its concentricity.
When fitted to the proper size,
and with the barrel shank lightly oiled, you should be able to press the barrel
shank into the receiver hole by hand without using a mallet or similar
to hammer the barrel into the receiver. It should be tight but you should still be able
remove it if necessary and be able to rotate the barrel in order to align the extractor
slot with the extractor on the bolt.
With the barrel now fitted into the receiver hole, place the
bolt in the receiver WITHOUT the recoil spring and with the bolt retracted for
clearance, rotate the barrel so that the extractor in the bolt lines up with
the extractor slot in the barrel. Use
caution not to pull the extractor out of the bolt when rotating the barrel for
alignment. Stand the receiver on the
opposite end from the barrel and press down on the barrel into the
receiver. Although a traditional V-block is often
adequate, an ADJUSTABLE V-BLOCK (Part #00204) is recommended so that you can
set the barrel to any angle relative to the bore. Install the V-Block and the cap screws hand
tight. Torque the cap screws while
pushing down on the barrel and verify that the barrel is not pulling toward the
V-block as you tighten the V-Block. If
the barrel is correctly fitted to the receiver hole, the barrel will not droop
(ie pull toward the V-block). If it does,
you will have to use an adjustable V-Block to prevent the barrel from drooping
as the V-Block is tightened. Prior to the V-Block being torqued, verify
that the extractor in the bolt aligns perfectly with the extractor slot in the
barrel. Barrel installation is complete.
The width of the bolt is critical for safe and reliable
operation. Ruger® factory bolts that
have been “polished” will often then be too thin from the polishing process
removing metal and a slam fire condition is possible. Do not use a Ruger® factory bolt that has
been “polished” or otherwise modified in any way. When assembling your rifle, ensure that the
bolt that you use is wide enough to not allow the bolt to hit the rim and fire
the round if the bolt is pushed all the way to either side of the
receiver. The entire rim of the round
should always be in the corresponding pocket of the bolt regardless of the left
or right position of the bolt in the receiver.
order for the rifle to successfully chamber the new round each time, the bolt
face has to be smooth and have the correct geometry. Generally, a machined bolt will have a more
uniform finish and geometry than a Ruger® factory cast bolt although cast bolts
will work most of the time. The recoil
spring has to have sufficient force to be able to drive the weight of the bolt forward
and strip a round from the magazine. The
magazine feedlips have to be designed to ensure that the feed angle will correctly
present the round to the chamber.
Plastic magazines often will wear out and the feed angle will change. Similarly,
different brands of high capacity magazines will have different feed angle
geometry resulting in one brand working well and another not working at
all. In addition, the actual bullet
shape of different brands of ammunition in high capacity magazines will change
the feed angle relative to other brands of ammunition that have a different bullet
profile. For testing, always use a Ruger®
10 round rotary magazine since the rounds are individually nested and are not
stacked on top of each other.
The 10/22® rifle operates based on the blowback of the bolt
by the brass when fired. In order for
the rifle to function correctly, the recoil of the fired brass has to be
greater than the combined resistance of (1) the weight of the bolt, (2) the force
of the recoil spring (3) cocking the hammer and (4) the drag of the bolt on the
receiver especially whennew, dirty or not oiled. Different brands of ammunition, especially
bulk ammunition, will have lighter recoil than ammunition such as CCI® MiniMags®. Similarly, ammunition can have different
blowback force from one round to the next due to powder variations in the ammunition. As a result, if the fired round does not blow
the bolt all the way rearward each time, you will experience failures to feed
as well as failures to eject.
to Feed: When
the bolt does not blow back far enough, it will not get behind the next round
in the mag in order to strip and push it into the barrel. When this occurs, you
will see the bolt stopped and usually dug into the lead bullet of the next
round in the magazine. A similar
condition, although more difficult to diagnose, occurs when the bolt does not
blow back far enough each time and just barely blows back to minimally get
behind the next round in the magazine, at which point you will not have the
full travel and force of the bolt coming forward to strip the round out of the
mag and run it into the chamber. To
remedy this issue, you will have to shoot hotter ammo or reduce the countering
recoil force as noted above by modifying the recoil spring.
Many third party barrel manufacturers will often use
tighter chambers in an effort to increase accuracy. However, the tighter chamber (and often with
no feedramp) combined with sharper edges on the chamber face, will make successfully
feeding ammo from the magazine to the
chamber much more difficult. To
successfully feed ammunition into a tighter chamber with no feedramp and
sharper edges, you may have to lightly polish the chamber end of the barrel and
create a more accessible chamber for the round to be able to feed.
stovepipe failure or similar with fired brass ending up jammed in the receiver
is usually a function of the extractor on the bolt not pulling the fired brass
out of the chamber as the bolt is recoiling to the rear of the receiver. Ideally, the brass would exit the barrel and
stay on the face of the bolt without an extractor but the extractor makes sure
that the brass leaves the barrel and stays on the bolt while the bolt recoils
until the brass hits the ejector with enough force to be thrown out of the
gun. If the extractor does not grab the
brass out of the chamber or does not hold the brass on the face of the bolt,
you should replace the extractor. We
offer a Sharp Claw Extractor (Part # 00422 that is EDM cut and not stamped)
that will cut into the brass to pull it from the receiver. Most extraction issues are due to the failure
of the extractor, which is an easy and inexpensive part to replace.
A stovepipe stoppage can also occur when the bolt does not
blow back far enough / hard enough for the brass to strike the ejector with enough
force to kick it out of the receiver, and instead it simply falls off the bolt
into the receiver. To remedy this issue,
you will have to either shoot hotter ammunition or reduce the recoil resistance
as noted above, with the easiest option being to clip one or two coils off the
recoil spring while continuing to test after clipping each coil.
Reliable function and operation requires that all parts successfully
work together as intended. Many issues
can be determined and resolved by substituting known non-issue Ruger® factory
parts out of the assembly one at a time until the problematic part(s) are
identified. Although the majority of rifle
assemblies can be completed without any issues (especially when using either
all Ruger® parts or all Tactical Innovations’ parts), you should seek competent
professional gunsmithing assistance should you encounter a situation that
exceeds your comfort or experience level.
We are happy to perform a comprehensive measurement and quality check on
any of our receivers but do not offer assembly or trouble shooting gunsmithing