| All of our .22LR suppressors are threaded 1/2x28 tpi. One of the advantages of having a threaded muzzle suppressor is that you can easily move it from one threaded gun to another thus maximizing the use of the suppressor. Some firearms, like the Walther P22 and the factory threaded SIG Mosquito are easily adapted for a suppressor by simply installing one of our thread adapters which require no gunsmithing or machine work. Other firearms, like a Ruger 10/22, you can simply swap the barrel for one of ours that are already professionally threaded, for not much more than a CNC barrel threading job would cost with shipping each way.
For other firearms, the barrel would need to be threaded correctly. The firm that threads the barrel should have previous experience in barrel threading. It is our recommendation that you don't have "a friend" experiment on your barrel for his first attempt using a 1926 flat belt lathe that he has to dust off to use. One the barrel is threaded incorrectly, it can not be "re-done". The barrel would have to be cut and threaded shorter which often is not possible since the new length would then be less than the 16.0" required for a rifle per ATF regulations. Improper threading could also result in damage to the suppressor, such as baffle and endcap strikes.
Before you thread (or have a barrel threaded), you should make your machinist aware of the following guidelines (in no particular order):
1. If possible, it should be CNC threaded and not done on a manual lathe since the CNC will not give you the wasted clearance groove at the shoulder.
2. If you have to do it manually, the clearance groove should be as minimal as possible and not .125. A clearance groove of .093 or LESS is preferable (since you only have .400 of thread, you don't want to waste 25% of it on a clearance groove).
3. The thread should be 1/2 x 28 tpi and it should be verified on certified go / no-go ring gauges.
4. You should have .400 length of thread from the shoulder, nothing longer.
5. The shoulder should be .600 OD and must be square and perpendicular.
6. The thread must be concentric to the ID bore. The barrel should be turned on centers since the bore is never concentric with the OD of the barrel.
7. A thread protector should be installed to make sure that the threads are not damaged when not in use.
8. If possible, its advantageous for the firm doing the threading to have the endcap so that they can verify that the fit between the barrel and the cap are a perfect match.
9. The barrel material should be steel. Barrels that are carbon fiber or other plastics do not hold up well for threading.
10. Multiple adapters will increase the angular error and increase the probability of a baffle strike.
11. You will NOT be able to determine if the barrel is threaded correctly by dropping a cleaning rod in it, looking down it, etc. If your accuracy is way off, most likely the bullet it rubbing the endcap on the way out of the suppressor due to an alignment issue.
12. We do not thread barrels (other than CZ 75 Kadet handgun barrels). Please do not send us your gun or your barrel. We will ship it back at your expense without threading it. For threading, any machine shop or local gunsmith, as well as a variety of firms that advertise on the internet, should be able to provide you with a professional threading job at a reasonable price.
Email if you have any questions that we've missed.
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