10/22® STYLE "80 PERCENT" RECEIVER BLANK WITH EXTENDED RAIL - ATF APPROVED
Now you can easily complete a 10/22 style compatible receiver to build your own custom rifle or pistol. We've already done the heavy machine work to get you close without yet completing it enough for ATF to consider this receiver blank to be a restricted receiver. This 80% blank is EXACTLY the same as our completed ELITE22 receivers but does not have the final machining done (which are all just holes).
We have all of the profile, the picatinny rail and the bolt pocket complete. All you have to do is machine or drill the few following holes:
- Barrel Hole
- V-Block Cap Screw Holes (2)
- Receiver Cross Pin Holes (2)
- Recoil Buffer Hole
- Recoil Spring Rod Detent
- Stock Attaching Screw
You can easily complete a rifle or pistol 10/22 style compatible receiver that can then be assembled with Ruger factory 10/22 parts or with our machined parts such as the trigger pack and the bolt assembly.
The 80% Receiver Blanks are available in your choice of either a Type III hard black anodized or Non-Anodized finishes (please select when ordering). We recommend that you select the black anodized finish since all of the holes that you will have to drill are all below the stock and will be covered when you assemble your rifle or pistol.
Hole placement can easily be determined by using the Machinist Drawing on the tab above also named "Machinist Drawing" or by using our 10/22 RECEIVER JIG part #04118 (available seperately) which provides exact hole placement as a template. Also available is a TOOLING PACKAGE part # 04486 that includes all the correct size drills to complete the receiver.
Although this 80% Receiver Blank is not classified as a firearm per ATF's evaluation and letter, you should verify that completion of the receiver is done in compliance with all state and local regulations.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR COMPLETING THE PIKE ARMS 80% 10/22 STYLE RECEIVER BLANK
In order to complete your 80% RECEIVER BLANK, you will need the following drill bits and tap:
11/16 Drill Bit (barrel hole)
#16 Drill Bit (12-24 tap drill)
3/16" Drill Bit (trigger pack holes)
1/4" Drill Bit (buffer hole)
1/8" x 8" Long Drill Bit (op rod detent)
The complete tooling set is available as a TOOLING PACKAGE (part # 04486) that includes all the correct size drills to complete the receiver.
COMPLETION OF THE RECEIVER REQUIRES METAL DRILLING WHICH
SHOULD ONLY BE ATTEMPTED BY PERSONS WITH SUFFICIENT EXPERIENCE AND
TRAINING TO COMPLETE THE OPERATIONS SAFELY. IF YOU ARE UNFAMILIAR WITH
OR UNSURE OF ANY OF THE PROCESSES DESCRIBED HEREIN, YOU SHOULD NOT
PROCEED AND YOU SHOULD SEEK COMPETENT ASSISTANCE.
CAUTION: The drill fixture to complete the Pike Arms 80% receiver
(available separately) is hardened to ensure its accuracy for multiple
"drill through" uses. However, since it is hardened steel, you must
ensure that each drill bit is exactly lined up with your fixture holes
(especially for the barrel hole) if you intend to drill through the
fixture to complete the receiver. If the drill bit catches on the
drilling fixture due to any misalignment or runout in the drill press
spindle, its possible that you will either chip or break the drill bit
or will damage the fixture. Accurate, precise alignment is required. Damaged
tooling (drill bits, taps etc) purchased from Tactical Innovations will not be replaced after they have
been used. Please advise if you have a defective drill bit PRIOR to
SIDE OF RECEIVER:
Place the RECEIVER JIG on the right side of
the receiver with the R1, R2 etc holes visible.
Ensure that the receiver jig is securely against the bottom of the
receiver and also securely against the rear of the magwell. The jig should then be tightly clamped
against the side of the receiver. It is
preferred to use two smaller clamps that can clamp inside the receiver and then
clamp the jig to the side of the receiver rather than to clamp to the other
side of the receiver. USE EXTREME
CAUTION if you clamp to the other side of the receiver that you do not bend or
crush the receiver with the clamp. The
jig should also be clamped from the bottom of the jig to the top of the
receiver to ensure that it is not capable of slipping down.
NOTE when drilling holes that go though both
sides of the receiver, we drill them from each side individually and not all
the way through in one pass. This will
help prevent misalignment.
The first hole to drill is R1, which is the
buffer right side hole, which is drilled with a 1/4" drill bit. Drill only through the right side of the
receiver. DO NOT drill all the way
though to drill the left side of the receiver.
Change to a 3/16" drill bit in order to
drill the trigger assembly cross pin holes, labeled on the jig as R2 and R3.
NOT DRILL B1 AT THIS TIME. IT IS NOT
DRILLED ON THE RIGHT SIDE.
Remove the jig from the receiver. The right side of the receiver is complete.
SIDE OF RECEIVER:
Now place the RECEIVER JIG on the left side
of the receiver with the L1, L2 etc holes visible. Ensure that the receiver jig is securely against
the bottom of the receiver and also securely against the rear of the
magwell. The jig should then be tightly
clamped against the side of the receiver.
Clamp the jig in place identically as was done for the right side as
Using the same 3/16" drill bit, drill
the left side of the L2 and L3 holes for the trigger assembly cross pin holes.
Change back to the 1/4" drill bit and now
drill the left side of the buffer hole marked on the jig as L1.
Remove the jig from the receiver. The left side of the receiver is complete.
The rear / back of the receiver has the
ability to have a clean out hole included as an option. If you want to be able to run a rod through
the receiver to push the rod out the muzzle (a preferred method) then you will
have to drill the rear cleanout hole.
With the rear of the receiver facing up
(barrel facing the table), place the jig on the rear of the receiver with the
B1 labeled hole in the center of the rear of the receiver. The jig is indexed off of the right and
bottom of the receiver. Clamp the jig
securely and drill a 1/4" hole.
Remove the jig. The rear of the receiver is complete.
Using the barrel portion of the jig, slide
the jig into the receiver and clamp between the bottom of the jig and the top
rail of the receiver.
With the receiver in a vice and ensuring
that it is exactly vertical and not leaning in any direction, use an
11/16" drill bit to drill the barrel hole marked F1. It is VERY important that you get this hole
straight since it will determine the alignment of your barrel in the
receiver. If this hole is not straight,
your barrel will not ever be able to be aligned with your scope. The rear of the receiver is exactly parallel
to the position that the hole needs to be drilled so you can stand the receiver
on its end. Since you are going to be
drilling a big hole, make sure that you have it very securely clamped in a vice
before drilling the hole. This is the
one step that someone with some machinist background would be very useful to
With the jig in the same position, change to
your #16 drill bit and drill the two cap screw holes marked F2 and F3 for the
V-block cap screws. Drill these holes
all the way through.
Using the same #16 drill bit, flip the receiver
so that it is on the rail and drill the stock attaching screw hole in the
bottom which is not marked on the jig.
Remove the jig. All exterior holes have been drilled and the jigs are
no longer required.
The last hole that needs to be drilled is the detent for the spring op rod. The spring op rod detent is a small pocket that is required in order for the op rod to stay correctly in place in the receiver when assembled.
Change your drill to the 8" long 1/8" drill bit. With the receiver standing on the rear of the receiver (same position as you used to drill the barrel hole), drill through the barrel hole all the way down to the small exposed surface and carefully spot the area for the op rod. This is a detent and not a deep hole. Do not drill this hole too deeply. You can use an op rod to "feel" if you are deep enough which is indicated by the rod securely staying in the detent and not being able to be easily pushed out of the detent.
Using a 12-24 tpi tap, hand tap the two cap
screw holes for the V-block all the way through. Make sure to use oil and extreme care not to
overload the tap and snap it off in the hole (which would render the receiver
not usable). Depending on the cap screws that are used
to attach the V-block as well as the length of the tap you are using, you may have to counter sink the two threaded holes (identically to Ruger factory receivers) to
allow them to be screwed all the way in tightly since many do not have threads
all the way to the shoulder head of the screw.
If you want / need to countersink the holes, use a 1/4" drill bit
and drill into the same holes for approx .500 (half of an inch) to provide
clearance for the cap screws. DO NOT
over drill the holes. If you drill them
too deeply to countersink the holes, you will not have enough threads left to
torque the v-block cap screws and the receiver will be unusable.
Using the same 12-24 tap, also tap the hole
for the stock attaching screw.
AND FINE TUNING:
1. All of the holes will be below the stock
line and will not be visible when the rifle is assembled. However, if you want the drilled holes to
also be black, you can use Birchwood Casey ALUMABLACK (Our Part #02210) on the holes to blacken
the newly drilled holes to match a black receiver.
2. If any of the holes are too sharp, they
will need to be deburred with either a larger drill bit or an exacto knife
etc. All holes should be smooth at the surface.
Your receiver is now complete and may be
assembled the same as any other 10/22 style receiver.
REPLACEMENT 10/22® RECEIVER
Thank you for your purchase of a Tactical Innovations’
ELITE22™ receiver. The receiver is precision CNC machined from
aircraft 6061 grade aluminum to provide years of reliability and pleasure. Please review these assembly instructions and
tips before attempting to assemble your receiver.
The receiver can be assembled with Ruger® factory parts or
a custom rifle can be assembled using our billet machined replacement
parts. Parts manufactured by third party
companies may also work but the use of parts from multiple different
manufactures can often be problematic and require additional fitting and troubleshooting
as a result of the tolerances for each part from each manufacturer.
The barrel is installed using a V-Block and cap screws
identically to the factory assembly. The
shank on the barrel, regardless of the manufacturer, will be larger than the
hole in the receiver and will not slip into the receiver without fitting. The
receiver barrel hole is precisely machined and should not be “fitted” or
modified during the assembly process; only the barrel shank should be fitted to
the receiver. It is critical that the
barrel shank have a light press fit into the receiver. If the barrel shank is loose in the receiver
hole, then the barrel will droop when the V-block is tightened and it will be
impossible to align a scope with the point of impact since the barrel will be
slightly pointing down and will not be parallel with the bore.
To fit the barrel to the receiver, you will need to only remove
a very small amount of material from the barrel shank (the part of the barrel
that goes into the receiver hole). Do
not use a dremel or similar power tool to grind on the receiver hole or the barrel
shank. Use sandpaper or a flat file on
the barrel shank only. One method is to
roll the barrel across your lap while you use the file or sandpaper in order to
ensure that you are removing the same amount of material from all sides of the
barrel shank to maintain its concentricity.
When fitted to the proper size,
and with the barrel shank lightly oiled, you should be able to press the barrel
shank into the receiver hole by hand without using a mallet or similar
to hammer the barrel into the receiver. It should be tight but you should still be able
remove it if necessary and be able to rotate the barrel in order to align the extractor
slot with the extractor on the bolt.
With the barrel now fitted into the receiver hole, place the
bolt in the receiver WITHOUT the recoil spring and with the bolt retracted for
clearance, rotate the barrel so that the extractor in the bolt lines up with
the extractor slot in the barrel. Use
caution not to pull the extractor out of the bolt when rotating the barrel for
alignment. Stand the receiver on the
opposite end from the barrel and press down on the barrel into the
receiver. Although a traditional V-block is often
adequate, an ADJUSTABLE V-BLOCK (Part #00204) is recommended so that you can
set the barrel to any angle relative to the bore. Install the V-Block and the cap screws hand
tight. Torque the cap screws while
pushing down on the barrel and verify that the barrel is not pulling toward the
V-block as you tighten the V-Block. If
the barrel is correctly fitted to the receiver hole, the barrel will not droop
(ie pull toward the V-block). If it does,
you will have to use an adjustable V-Block to prevent the barrel from drooping
as the V-Block is tightened. Prior to the V-Block being torqued, verify
that the extractor in the bolt aligns perfectly with the extractor slot in the
barrel. Barrel installation is complete.
The width of the bolt is critical for safe and reliable
operation. Ruger® factory bolts that
have been “polished” will often then be too thin from the polishing process
removing metal and a slam fire condition is possible. Do not use a Ruger® factory bolt that has
been “polished” or otherwise modified in any way. When assembling your rifle, ensure that the
bolt that you use is wide enough to not allow the bolt to hit the rim and fire
the round if the bolt is pushed all the way to either side of the
receiver. The entire rim of the round
should always be in the corresponding pocket of the bolt regardless of the left
or right position of the bolt in the receiver.
order for the rifle to successfully chamber the new round each time, the bolt
face has to be smooth and have the correct geometry. Generally, a machined bolt will have a more
uniform finish and geometry than a Ruger® factory cast bolt although cast bolts
will work most of the time. The recoil
spring has to have sufficient force to be able to drive the weight of the bolt forward
and strip a round from the magazine. The
magazine feedlips have to be designed to ensure that the feed angle will correctly
present the round to the chamber.
Plastic magazines often will wear out and the feed angle will change. Similarly,
different brands of high capacity magazines will have different feed angle
geometry resulting in one brand working well and another not working at
all. In addition, the actual bullet
shape of different brands of ammunition in high capacity magazines will change
the feed angle relative to other brands of ammunition that have a different bullet
profile. For testing, always use a Ruger®
10 round rotary magazine since the rounds are individually nested and are not
stacked on top of each other.
The 10/22® rifle operates based on the blowback of the bolt
by the brass when fired. In order for
the rifle to function correctly, the recoil of the fired brass has to be
greater than the combined resistance of (1) the weight of the bolt, (2) the force
of the recoil spring (3) cocking the hammer and (4) the drag of the bolt on the
receiver especially whennew, dirty or not oiled. Different brands of ammunition, especially
bulk ammunition, will have lighter recoil than ammunition such as CCI® MiniMags®. Similarly, ammunition can have different
blowback force from one round to the next due to powder variations in the ammunition. As a result, if the fired round does not blow
the bolt all the way rearward each time, you will experience failures to feed
as well as failures to eject.
to Feed: When
the bolt does not blow back far enough, it will not get behind the next round
in the mag in order to strip and push it into the barrel. When this occurs, you
will see the bolt stopped and usually dug into the lead bullet of the next
round in the magazine. A similar
condition, although more difficult to diagnose, occurs when the bolt does not
blow back far enough each time and just barely blows back to minimally get
behind the next round in the magazine, at which point you will not have the
full travel and force of the bolt coming forward to strip the round out of the
mag and run it into the chamber. To
remedy this issue, you will have to shoot hotter ammo or reduce the countering
recoil force as noted above by modifying the recoil spring.
Many third party barrel manufacturers will often use
tighter chambers in an effort to increase accuracy. However, the tighter chamber (and often with
no feedramp) combined with sharper edges on the chamber face, will make successfully
feeding ammo from the magazine to the
chamber much more difficult. To
successfully feed ammunition into a tighter chamber with no feedramp and
sharper edges, you may have to lightly polish the chamber end of the barrel and
create a more accessible chamber for the round to be able to feed.
stovepipe failure or similar with fired brass ending up jammed in the receiver
is usually a function of the extractor on the bolt not pulling the fired brass
out of the chamber as the bolt is recoiling to the rear of the receiver. Ideally, the brass would exit the barrel and
stay on the face of the bolt without an extractor but the extractor makes sure
that the brass leaves the barrel and stays on the bolt while the bolt recoils
until the brass hits the ejector with enough force to be thrown out of the
gun. If the extractor does not grab the
brass out of the chamber or does not hold the brass on the face of the bolt,
you should replace the extractor. We
offer a Sharp Claw Extractor (Part # 00422 that is EDM cut and not stamped)
that will cut into the brass to pull it from the receiver. Most extraction issues are due to the failure
of the extractor, which is an easy and inexpensive part to replace.
A stovepipe stoppage can also occur when the bolt does not
blow back far enough / hard enough for the brass to strike the ejector with enough
force to kick it out of the receiver, and instead it simply falls off the bolt
into the receiver. To remedy this issue,
you will have to either shoot hotter ammunition or reduce the recoil resistance
as noted above, with the easiest option being to clip one or two coils off the
recoil spring while continuing to test after clipping each coil.
Reliable function and operation requires that all parts successfully
work together as intended. Many issues
can be determined and resolved by substituting known non-issue Ruger® factory
parts out of the assembly one at a time until the problematic part(s) are
identified. Although the majority of rifle
assemblies can be completed without any issues (especially when using either
all Ruger® parts or all Tactical Innovations’ parts), you should seek competent
professional gunsmithing assistance should you encounter a situation that
exceeds your comfort or experience level.
We are happy to perform a comprehensive measurement and quality check on
any of our receivers but do not offer assembly or trouble shooting gunsmithing